Sarah Mariotti https://fashionmagazine.com Canada's #1 Fashion and Beauty Magazine Fri, 15 Sep 2023 15:30:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.3 Sarah Burton Exits Alexander McQueen + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/sarah-burton-leaves-alexander-mcqueen/ Fri, 15 Sep 2023 14:52:34 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=476888 Sarah Burton leaves Alexander McQueen   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by FASHION Magazine (@fashioncanada) It’s true what they say: All good things must come to an end. Earlier this week, news broke that after two glorious decades together, Sarah Burton and Alexander McQueen are going their separate ways. During her […]

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Sarah Burton leaves Alexander McQueen

 

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It’s true what they say: All good things must come to an end. Earlier this week, news broke that after two glorious decades together, Sarah Burton and Alexander McQueen are going their separate ways.

During her 13-year tenure as creative director of the brand, Burton became known for her commitment to craftsmanship and marrying conceptual storytelling with impeccable tailoring. She’s also been responsible for some serious wow-worthy red carpet, runway and royal style moments, like Kate Middleton’s wedding dress and Timothée Chalamet’s Dune premiere ensemble. Her final contributions to the fashion house will be revealed in Paris later this month at the brand’s Spring 2024 ready-to-wear show.

“Above all I want to thank [the late] Lee Alexander McQueen,” says Burton in a release from the brand. “He taught me so much and I am eternally grateful to him. I am looking forward to the future and my next chapter and will always carry this treasured time with me.”

RELATED: What’s With All the Recent Shake-Ups in the Fashion Industry?

Barbie and Roots collaborate

Photography courtesy of Roots x Barbie

Pink and plastic dolls aren’t what normally come to mind when envisioning a woodsy cabin trip, yet somehow, in Roots’ recent collaboration with Barbie, it works. (Barbie can do anything, duh.) The lineup of sweatshirts, sweatpants, varsity jackets and leather goods all marry the iconic Roots salt and pepper colourway and block lettering with Barbie’s curvy penmanship and unmistakable pink. What’s more, a limited-edition Barbie doll is available for purchase — and she’s dressed head to toe in the most iconic Roots styles.

RELATED: Justice for Weird Barbie

The Louis Vuitton [Extended] podcast is here

Photography courtesy of Louis Vuitton [Extended]

Fashion junkies, listen up (literally). Louis Vuitton has launched an exclusive podcast, Louis Vuitton [Extended], that dives deep into the many iconic stories behind the brand. Hosted by French fashion journalist Loïc Prigent, the podcast will release two episodes each month. Expect to learn a bit more about the creative minds turning the wheels — like womenswear creative director Nicolas Ghesquière and master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. First up is Pharrell Williams discussing his debut show as men’s creative director.

Introducing contemporary fine jewellery label, Authorne

Photography by Little Wolf Collective

Allow us to introduce you to contemporary artist Rachel Bu’s new fine jewellery line, Authorne. What sets this Canadian-Chinese designer apart isn’t an expat status (she’s a New Yorker, now) or an intensely curated product line, it’s her ability to turn intricate, sculptural objects into wearable art, all while infusing it with her own personal history — a hybrid of Eastern and Western influence. Call it a negotiation of duality, Bu is surely one of a kind.

Central to the inaugural collection are five motifs: the Octopus, the Cicada, the Guardians, the Angel & Devil and the Mother Chain, but Bu also takes on custom projects for anyone hunting down a true bespoke piece.

RELATED: Jewellers Are Using Kintsugi To Upcycle Broken Gems

Simons unveils a regenerative cotton denim collection

Photography courtesy of Simons

New denim for fall? An absolute must! Especially these new circular cotton denim pieces from Simons. The collection — comprised of jeans, overalls and a denim skirt — is derived from regenerative agriculture, using 78 per cent fewer cubic metres of water and emitting 35 per cent less carbon dioxide than conventional denim. Style tip: Pair a piece from this capsule with chic loafers and an oversized bag for the perfect autumnal outfit.

Canada Goose’s latest campaign just screams “girl power”

Photography by Annie Leibovitz

Canada Goose’s latest Live in the Open campaign tells a story about female empowerment. It’s photographed by the iconic Annie Leibovitz, and features three powerhouse women: actress and musician Sheila Atim, BAFTA-winning wildlife filmmaker and cinematographer Sophie Darlington and Olympic ice hockey goalie Kimberly Newell. Captured on the red hills of New Mexico, these three women are each sporting the Canada Goose Fall 2023 collection in their own unique way.

With files from Annika Lautens

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Sofia Richie Grainge Is the New Face of David Yurman + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/sofia-richie-grainge-david-yurman-ambassador/ Fri, 08 Sep 2023 19:05:52 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=476060 Sofia Richie Grainge is David Yurman’s new global ambassador Modernity, timeless beauty and independence can be used to describe David Yurman’s values, which is what makes their newest global ambassador such a great fit. Meet Sofia Richie Grainge, 2023’s It girl, participant of the quiet luxury movement, and the jewellery label’s newest muse. She stepped […]

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Sofia Richie Grainge is David Yurman’s new global ambassador
Photography courtesy of David Yurman

Modernity, timeless beauty and independence can be used to describe David Yurman’s values, which is what makes their newest global ambassador such a great fit. Meet Sofia Richie Grainge, 2023’s It girl, participant of the quiet luxury movement, and the jewellery label’s newest muse. She stepped into her new role at David Yurman with the brand’s Sculpted Cable Bracelet campaign, which features images of an exquisite-looking Richie Grainge that perfectly capture the essence of laid-back luxury.

RELATED: It’s the Summer of Sofia Richie Grainge

Hilary MacMillan introduces the Jardin De Chenonceau collection

Photography courtesy of Hilary MacMillan

To mark Hilary MacMillan’s 10-year anniversary, the Canadian label has launched a special Fall 2023 collection that pays homage to its affinity for colour, texture and size inclusivity, all with a perfect autumnal touch. Think plush velvets, rich jewel tones, faux furs and vegan leathers. Watch this space, as the collection will be released in three drops.

H&M launches a kid’s collection in collaboration with Eva Chen

Photography courtesy of H&M

Just in time for the back-to-school season, H&M has unveiled a limited-edition kid’s collection in collaboration with best-selling author, former magazine editor and multi-hyphenate style icon Eva Chen. A mom herself, Chen included her daughter in the design process to view the collection through youthful eyes.

“There’s just something so unique about how a child experiences the world,” Chen said in a release from the brand. “I can’t wait to see how kids everywhere, including my own, live and play in these pieces for years to come.” The gender-neutral separates, all of which have a ’90s influence, were designed with play and function in mind.

Concept boutique Absolutely Fabrics opens in Toronto


Searching for a little more individuality in your wardrobe? Look no further than Absolutely Fabrics, Toronto’s newest concept store filled with unique contemporary and designer pieces from brands like Puppets and Puppets, Luar and Canadian label Beaufille, as well as an impeccable curation of vintage fashion.

“We want to be the retail partner for emerging designers that becomes a destination for those shoppers who want what no one else has,” says founder and creative director Kaelen Haworth. What’s more, within Absolutely Fabrics is a full-service event and studio space that is available to the creative community for shoots, exhibitions, artist talks and other projects.

Harry Rosen introduces designer brands to its collection

Photography courtesy of Harry Rosen

Ahead of its 70th anniversary next year, Harry Rosen is making some exciting brand changes. The legacy men’s retailer has added contemporary designer brands — from Kenzo and Balmain to Marni, Maison Margiela and Zegna x The Elder Statesman — to their collection in an effort to connect with a younger, more fashion-forward audience. But don’t fret, the beloved Harry Rosen point of view that current clients know and cherish remains.

Ownever paints the town pink

Photography courtesy of Ownever

Ownever, the newest name in luxury bags, has introduced its latest limited-edition style: a blush pink handbag featuring only the finest repurposed leather. A bag this cute? You’ll want to hold onto it forever. Ownever redefines timeless fashion through offering a lifetime of repair services, so you can keep this handbag for generations on end.

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What Does It Mean To Be “Iconic” in 2023? https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/celebrity/fashion-icon/ Tue, 15 Aug 2023 16:16:19 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=474705 Ever since the first fawning profile of her appeared in 1994 in The New Yorker, when she was all of 19 years old, Chloë Sevigny has been considered a fashion icon. The icy blond from Darien, Conn., has maintained an edgy, chameleonic mystique, looking as at home in microscopic gym shorts as she does in […]

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Ever since the first fawning profile of her appeared in 1994 in The New Yorker, when she was all of 19 years old, Chloë Sevigny has been considered a fashion icon. The icy blond from Darien, Conn., has maintained an edgy, chameleonic mystique, looking as at home in microscopic gym shorts as she does in a matronly tweed Chanel suit. Sevigny falls into the category of fashion icon that confounds expectations rather than confirming them: think wearing jelly shoes when everyone else is sporting Doc Martens as opposed to Lynn Yaeger’s unchanging baby-doll makeup or Anna Wintour’s omnipresent razor-sharp bob. The baby-blue ringer tee she wore in Kids is now on display in the Museum of the City of New York. Nineties-era bleached eyebrows like those she has in the film Gummo are currently experiencing a mini-revival. And an upscale garage sale of her clothing archive in NoHo drew a lineup that wrapped around multiple New York City blocks and was called the “Sale of the Century.”

RELATED: Introducing FASHION’s September Cover Stars: 5 Iconic Canadian Supermodels

 

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If the decisive word of the 2010s was “epic” (think epic win, Epic Meal Time, epic bacon), then the mot du jour of our current day may well be “iconic.” A vocabulary staple uttered everywhere from runways to RuPaul’s Drag Race, the word is now used to describe everything from candid photographs of celebrities to a fictional character’s wardrobe (cough, Shiv from Succession). No longer reserved for those who have reached the apotheosis of celebrity (or at least in their professional field), “iconic” has become ubiquitous, casually tossed off to express a baseline level of esteem or admiration. So what does it really mean to be iconic? And if everything from Harry Styles to platform Crocs can be considered iconic, has the designation officially lost its lustre?

In The Star as Icon, academic Daniel Herwitz strives to understand the phenomenon — “that endlessly talked about and little understood persona, object of adulation, fantasy and cult.” He suggests that iconicity is defined by a fizzy chemical reaction that happens when beauty, charisma and fame collide. An icon is a supernova of fame — a distillation of pure desire. If everyone contains some degree of allure, then icons have been blessed with a heavily concentrated version of it: a gallon of eye-watering 192-proof rocket-fuel vodka compared to the average person’s one-ounce cocktail.

Depending on who you are, an icon might be an assemblage of qualities you strive for but never quite reach — your stylistic North Star.

But rewind to the eighth century and an icon wasn’t the Middle Ages equivalent of Zendaya; it was a religious painting. Derived from the ancient-Greek word “eikṓn,” meaning “image” or “likeness,” an icon was a Modigliani-esque portrait of a biblical figure like Saint Peter, the archangel Gabriel and, of course, Jesus Christ. According to Brisbane Catholic Education’s Catholic Identity page, “it is prayer to just look attentively at an icon and let God speak.” Each icon was usually depicted with a halo of light encircling their head to denote a saintly aura.

Modern icons may be missing their halos, but, arguably, a whiff of spiritual ascendance still clings to the moniker. If ancient icons were meant to be a portal to all things holy, then our current icons tread familiar terrain. Icons are usually women we want to look at, be in close proximity to and develop a parasocial relationship with, like Addison Rae or Emma Chamberlain. We crane our necks to look up at them, creating a natural hierarchy that places them on top. They may not be sacrosanct, but icons give us something to worship.

 

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And similar to saints, each icon represents something different. Icons are unique and irreplaceable. No star has come close to Sevigny’s singular proclivity for risk taking when it comes to both acting roles and outfit choices. And there’s an air of mystery behind the familiar facade that allows us to project our own fantasies onto her as well. Could we be just like Sevigny if we purchased her old Depeche Mode T-shirt or Versace mini-dress? A true icon leaves us with more questions than answers.

That everything is iconic now speaks to the overall widening of our cultural gaze. The people who command our attention are no longer a select group of movie stars and musicians but are relatively regular, yet undeniably attractive, people who happen to be somewhat entertaining, good at dancing or great at selling products. But the most important quality of an icon is that they have a lasting impact — something that can only be assessed in hindsight.

 

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Calling something or someone iconic is perhaps the highest compliment a person can bestow. It’s not something to be taken lightly. Depending on who you are, an icon might be an assemblage of qualities you strive for but never quite reach — your stylistic North Star. For a certain type of fashion-obsessed person who fetishizes the cultural era of downtown New York in the ’90s (a.k.a. me), Sevigny is definitely one. It’s natural and human to want to claim some of that stardust for ourselves. So perhaps it’s ironic that as society moves toward greater inclusivity, the biggest compliment is undergirded by exclusivity. But so what? Aren’t we all, in our own way, a little bit iconic?

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Yes, Plus-Size Fashion Is Viable https://fashionmagazine.com/style/lauren-chan-henning-plus-size-fashion/ Fri, 11 Aug 2023 15:13:52 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=474650 In 2018, when I was starting my business, Henning, I had a meeting with a potential investor who told me that there was very little blue sky (that’s venture-capital-speak for “market opportunity”) left within plus-size fashion because three companies had already received funding. Yes, three. “Thanks for the advice re: ‘remaining blue sky,’” I wrote […]

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In 2018, when I was starting my business, Henning, I had a meeting with a potential investor who told me that there was very little blue sky (that’s venture-capital-speak for “market opportunity”) left within plus-size fashion because three companies had already received funding. Yes, three. “Thanks for the advice re: ‘remaining blue sky,’” I wrote back. The truth: It was bullshit — grin-and-bear-it, white-knuckle, eye-roll kind of bullshit.

RELATED: The Ultra-Mini Skirt is Back. But Where’s the Body Inclusivity?

As someone who had worn above a size 14 for a decade, I was incensed. And thanks to my time as a fashion editor reporting on size inclusion, I knew that statistically I had every right to be. Nearly 70 per cent of women wear size 14 or up, and size 18 is the average size; despite those numbers, fashion largely stops at size 12 and plus-size fashion makes up less than a fifth of apparel sales. Translation: Over 100 million plus-size shoppers — including me — are without sufficient clothing options. Three? Not even close to enough.

What our limited shopping destinations do offer us is, frankly, dismal. If you’re a plus-size shopper, you know that our clothing options are mostly dowdy, outdated and cheaply made. If you’re new here, take my very exasperated word for it. Over the years, brands (think Loft, Melissa McCarthy Seven7 and even Addition Elle) have tried to improve the plus-size shopping space, but few have succeeded in the long run. And don’t get me started on the extensive list of designer brands that haven’t even tried.

Photography by Lily Cummings

During my time as an editor, I set out on a quest to uncover why fashion kept missing the mark on this obvious business opportunity. I found that there were two types of companies within this research: brands that were already size inclusive or genuinely wanted to be and those that were not and had no such aspiration. Those that weren’t size inclusive but wanted to be were often veteran brands that were unable to efficiently innovate or new brands overcome with industry-wide disadvantages. Those that didn’t want to be size inclusive simply did not want plus-size people wearing their clothes. (Sometimes, though, they got sold on the white space in the plus-size category as an easy money grab. They would then launch a disappointing plus-size effort, and when it didn’t turn to gold overnight, they gave up. The boldly fatphobic brands simply cited those failures and insisted that plus-size fashion was a dead end.)

I didn’t believe that plus-size fashion was such an impossible category, so I decided to take matters into my own hands and build my brand: Henning. My mission was twofold: Make more ethical, elevated, high-quality clothing than had ever been on offer for plus-size shoppers and prove that plus-size fashion is a viable business. Building my company was not without its challenges — any fashion-brand founder will tell you that it’s an excruciating undertaking — but a lifetime of frustration motivated me to keep on.

First, there were issues that our team was able to overcome simply by strategizing, such as the aforementioned absence of investment, a lack of skilled pattern makers due to inadequate education in size-inclusive design, mills that didn’t cut fabrics wide enough for plus-sizes, factories that hadn’t made garments above size 14, retail partners that hadn’t carried significant plus-size assortments in-store and expensive niche-customer acquisition costs. And when it came to the commonly cited additional costs involved in making plus-size clothing, we — shocker! — built them into our price margin.

 

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Then there were the challenges that had to be handled with nuance and care. The biggest? Plus-size consumers are used to poor-quality products, downmarket branding, wallflower designs, inconsistent sizing and dismissive treatment. There is a subset of young customers who came of age during the commercialization of body positivity and shop eagerly, but many older shoppers had been ever-excluded to the point of disengagement — they hold much of our demographic’s spending power, and getting them to shop in an engaged way can be difficult.

We had a number of ideas to overcome this hurdle. For starters: Six months ahead of our product launch, we created an Instagram account to show the brand-building process, opened a private Facebook group wherein community members could interact with one another, sent out educational newsletters in which customers could reply to me directly and held in-person events and focus groups. With these efforts, we wanted to show our customers that Henning would be unlike any shopping experience they’d ever had before.

Another goal of these initiatives was to make our business operate on a two-way street, since another issue that plagues plus-size fashion is that brands don’t often listen to their customers. Throughout the life of the business, we asked  them about everything from their trim preferences to bicep measurements to colour choices — and really implemented the feedback — in order to ensure the best product-market fit.

The last challenge I’ll mention is that clothing isn’t actually designed to fit people individually; it’s made to fit average measurements, and this is a status-quo issue that plus-size customers bear the brunt of. With folks who wear size 14 and up, bodily projections vary more drastically, making it harder for off-the-rack garments to fit us. Most of the plus-size market solves this issue by making super-stretchy or extremely baggy clothing. In order to avoid compromising the integrity of our suiting-focused designs, we chose tailoring. Specifically, we offered free alterations up to a value of 10 per cent of the garment cost to make sure each customer had clothes that fit perfectly, which also curbed returns.

In my humble opinion, our key to success was the shared lived experience that my team and I had with our customers. We deeply understood the intricacies of the plus-size community’s pains and hopes and were therefore able to make decisions that resonated with customers. My number one piece of advice to anyone hoping to find success in this category: Hire and give real power to plus-size people.

So why take my advice over, say, that venture capitalist’s? I’m proud to report that earlier this year Henning was acquired by the most size-inclusive brand in the world: Universal Standard. When the deal went through, it made Henning the first non-venture-backed, female-founded plus-size brand to make a successful exit. I felt immense pride and, toward the early doubters, defiance. I captioned my Instagram (@lcchan) post sharing the announcement for them: “I never want to hear anyone say that plus-size fashion isn’t a viable business ever again. [Mic drop.]”

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Another Hadid Sister Dominates the Runway + Other Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/alana-hadid-runway-debut/ Fri, 11 Aug 2023 14:54:05 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=474886 Alana Hadid makes her runway debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Alana Hadid (@lanzybear) Attention: A third Hadid sister has hit the runway. Gigi and Bella’s older half-sister Alana Hadid made her runway debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week on August 7. Opening the Saks Potts […]

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Alana Hadid makes her runway debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week

 

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Attention: A third Hadid sister has hit the runway. Gigi and Bella’s older half-sister Alana Hadid made her runway debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week on August 7. Opening the Saks Potts show wearing a blue sequinned skirt over jeans with a single-breasted leather coat, Hadid, who is a fashion designer and entrepreneur, effortlessly embodied the Scandi city’s inimitable and eclectic aesthetic. But what makes this cooler is the spontaneity of it all. “I had decided to come to Copenhagen [as] I love Danish brands,” she told Vogue. “[Saks Potts] caught wind that I was coming and asked me to walk [their show]; I was incredibly honoured.”

Later in the week, Hadid made a second runway appearance walking for sustainable label Munthe. She first sauntered out in a sheer, ankle-length frock with exposed lingerie, both fully embroidered with delicate leaf motifs, then showed a second look consisting of a black leather mini-dress and shearling-esque handbag. Effortlessly, might we add. Some things just run in the family.

RELATED: The Street Style at Copenhagen Fashion Week Is So Good

Lambert releases the Urban Poetry collection

Photography courtesy of Lambert

Lambert’s new Urban Poetry collection is a lesson on, well, poetry. The sleek silhouettes and neutral colour palette perfectly capture the effervescence of the brand’s home city of Montreal. What’s more, the vegan leather collection is so wide and diverse (with over 40 pieces) that it can truly speak to anyone’s needs — whether you’re heading back to school, back to the office or simply just want a wardrobe refresh.

Pandora taps Ashley Park as a global ambassador

Photography courtesy of Pandora

Not only did Pandora collaborate with Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time ever this year, but the Danish label has recently announced Ashley Park, former FASHION cover star, as its newest global ambassador. So what can we expect from the Emily in Paris (and newly-minted Only Murders in the Building) star’s new role with Pandora? Probably tons of lovely campaign imagery of Park in shimmering precious stones and mixed metals.

BOSS and the NFL reignite their collaboration ahead of football season

BOSS x NFL
Photography courtesy of BOSS

Football fans and fashion aficionados, it’s time to unite and rejoice. In BOSS’s second collaboration with the NFL, the two brands are expanding their product offering to feature even more teams on an array of sweatshirts, vests, jackets, joggers and more. Touchdown! (Right?)

RELATED: Sports Reporter Kayla Grey on Style, Authenticity and Highlighting Black Joy

Crocs partners with Pop-Tarts

 

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We’re officially living in a world where Crocs are not only cool but also edible. Allow me to explain.

In a surprising collaboration, Crocs and Pop-Tarts have come together to make “Croc-Tarts.” The collision includes a limited-edition pair of Classic Clogs in a toasted pastry colourway, red socks inspired by strawberry filling and Pop-Tarts-themed Jibbitz charms. While none of those are actually safe to eat, the purchase does come with a box of unfrosted Pop-Tarts and gummies disguised as Jibbitz…to decorate your snack, of course. Hot off the heels of the “Crocuterie” number on the Mschf x Crocs collab, we wonder: What’s next for the peckish brand?

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A Look Inside This Stylist’s Coveted Dress Collection https://fashionmagazine.com/style/talia-brown-thall-maxi-dress-collection/ Tue, 08 Aug 2023 17:45:54 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=474438 Growing up in remote North Bay, Ont., Talia Brown Thall loved heading to the concert hall to listen to the North Bay Symphony perform the upbeat woodwinds of Mozart or the swelling strings of Beethoven. But it wasn’t the music that was the draw for her — it was the clothes. RELATED: This Toronto-Based Eyewear […]

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Growing up in remote North Bay, Ont., Talia Brown Thall loved heading to the concert hall to listen to the North Bay Symphony perform the upbeat woodwinds of Mozart or the swelling strings of Beethoven. But it wasn’t the music that was the draw for her — it was the clothes.

RELATED: This Toronto-Based Eyewear Collector Has Over 200 Pairs of Specs

Brown Thall developed her love of dressing up at an early age. “On my first day of Grade 1, the teacher asked everyone what they wanted to be and I said I was going to play with Barbies,” she says. “I just didn’t know it was going to be with life-size Barbie dolls.” A full-time stylist since 2008, she has dressed such prestigious clients as Idris Elba, Avril Lavigne and a pre-Harry Meghan Markle.

 

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The consummate clothing lover found her true power outfit at the age of 14 when she tried on her first maxi-dress at Club Monaco Kids: a black-and-white long-sleeved polka-dot dress straight out of the Gwen Stefani era. “I remember putting on the dress and being like, ‘This is me; this is how I feel,’” she says. “I get a lot of compliments on my dresses when I go out, and I think it’s because people notice that I’m comfortable. When you’re comfortable, it kind of shows.” Now an accomplished collector, she shares a walk-in closet with husband Nelson B. Thall (whose family once co-owned the Toronto Star) in their three-bedroom Toronto home as well as two mirrored closets in different rooms that are stuffed to the gills with maxi-dresses. “I’m not even sure how many I own,” she says, guessing that the number is at least 200. Despite her small stature — she’s five foot one — Brown Thall is an avid collector of long, lean dresses that brush her ankles. “Technically they’re midi-dresses, but they’re maxis on me,” she laughs.

In the early 2000s, the “dress for your shape” dictums issued by fashion magazines treated maxi-dresses as the exclusive province of tall women, suggesting that the more petite should stick to mini-dresses so as to not overwhelm their Lilliputian frames. However, Brown Thall doesn’t abide by this principle. “I believe that rules are meant to be broken,” she says. “Sometimes I forget I’m short. In a maxi-dress, I feel like a tall short person.”

 

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Brown Thall tends to gravitate toward hyper-feminine silhouettes, like the layer-cake frills of LoveShackFancy, the voluminous pouf of Ganni and the floral fancy of Rotate Birger Christensen (of which she counts a blue puff-sleeved lace dress among her favourites). But as a new mother — her daughter, Arielle, was born in January 2022 — she has begun to embrace cleaner, sleeker silhouettes. Fashion provides the scaffolding upon which we hang the rest of our lives, and now Brown Thall is ready for more structure. All the dresses she acquires have two things in common: They are exquisitely made, and their fabrics feel soft to the touch. “I really like velvet and silk. I’m not a polyester-blend type of person,” she says.

While Brown Thall doesn’t plan on curbing her maxi-dress obsession any time soon, she has been forgoing fast fashion as of late in favour of acquiring items more thoughtfully. After all, a true investment piece is forever. “As long as you buy timeless pieces, you can wear them whenever you want.”

Ahead, some of Brown Thall’s most coveted frocks.

 

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Blush Is the Hero Makeup Product of This Generation https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty-grooming/makeup/best-cream-blushes-renaissance/ Thu, 03 Aug 2023 15:49:39 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=474393 After decades of being pushed aside for other cheek enhancers like contour cream, highlighter and bronzer, blush is back in its rightful spot in a makeup routine: front and centre. “Gen Z has fully embraced glowing skin and makeup that enhances natural features,” says makeup artist Lilly Keys, whose client roster includes A-listers Olivia Rodrigo, […]

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After decades of being pushed aside for other cheek enhancers like contour cream, highlighter and bronzer, blush is back in its rightful spot in a makeup routine: front and centre. “Gen Z has fully embraced glowing skin and makeup that enhances natural features,” says makeup artist Lilly Keys, whose client roster includes A-listers Olivia Rodrigo, Addison Rae, Jenna Ortega and Emma Chamberlain. “Blush is the easiest way to achieve a healthy, youthful glow.”

RELATED: 14 Lipstick Shades Our Editors Can’t Live Without

This isn’t the makeup category’s first rodeo, though. Back in the ’80s, blush reigned supreme. The decade was known for a certain “just ran an entire marathon” flush, and It girls like Grace Jones and Debbie Harry were famous for their overly rouged cheeks. But once the over-the-top decadence of the ’80s passed, the ’90s and aughts ushered in more neutral tones. Our rose-coloured glasses came off, and beauty trends were all about Kardashian contouring and cheekbones so defined it seemed like they might be visible from outer space. During the rise of Instagram, blush was reduced to an afterthought, as more dramatic makeup looks (like sharp winged liner, bold brows and, of course, a face full of contour) became king. And their seemingly unrelenting reign lasted for more than a decade.

But with the beginning of the pandemic came an understandable desire to bring colour and radiance back into our faces. Forget the chalky-grey undertones of contour creams; daily Zoom calls required rosy, glowing cheeks. Then in September 2020, Selena Gomez launched her cosmetics line, Rare Beauty, and released the now-viral Soft Pinch Liquid Blush. The ultra-pigmented products started making waves almost immediately. “I was working at Sephora when Rare Beauty launched,” says digital creator and makeup artist Sean Anthony (@Seananthonyv), who now shares makeup tutorials with his over 900,000 TikTok followers. “It was like nothing we’d ever seen before.” Shades were flying off the shelves and selling out for long stretches of time — in stark contrast to just a few years prior. “When I started working at Sephora in 2016, many cream blushes were being phased out,” presumably due to a lack of consumer interest, says Anthony.

 

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Today, blush is a must-have makeup product, with brands like Charlotte Tilbury, Nudestix and Saie seeing huge success with cream and liquid formulas over the past two years. According to the global payment and shopping service app Klarna, there was a 161 per cent increase in Canadian sales of liquid blush between November 2022 and April 2023. More specifically, there was a whopping 1,408 per cent increase in pink-blush sales in Canada between April 2022 and April 2023. And who can deny the chokehold the colour pink has had on us for the past several years? From Glossier’s millennial pink a handful of years ago to Barbie pink today, the fashion and beauty industries’ colour of the decade is still going strong. La vie en rose, indeed.

Cream and liquid blushes deliver healthy-looking, luminous skin that’s beloved by makeup-savvy Gen Z, the driving force behind many of today’s big makeup trends. And unlike their powder-blush predecessor, these creamy formulas are loved for their foolproof application and youthful glow. Powder formulas have no place in the recipe for radiant “glazed doughnut” skin. Keys stockpiles versatile creams in her kit because they can be applied on the fly, using just her fingers. “When you warm up the product, it sinks into the skin for a dewy, sexy, flushed appearance,” she says.

For the generation that values authenticity and individuality above all else, another reason blush is enticing is that its purpose isn’t to cover up, conceal or carve out angles and shapes that aren’t naturally there. It’s your natural flush — but better. “Blush encourages people to embrace their own unique beauty,” says Keys. “And it’s a confidence booster.” For Anthony, part of the appeal of cream blush is its popularity within the Korean and Japanese beauty communities, both of which have a major influence on North American trends. He recalls that when he was growing up in the Philippines, blush was a makeup product everyone wore, even during the contouring craze in the West. “The routine in the Philippines has long been blush and lip tint — that’s it.”

Meanwhile, TikTok is spearheading North America’s blush comeback. Creators who feature traffic-generating products like Rare Beauty’s Soft Pinch blushes and Charlotte Tilbury’s Beauty Light Wand are seeing big numbers as a result. Currently, the hashtag #blush has a staggering 4.8 billion views on the video platform, with #RareBeautyBlush clocking in 1.5 billion eyeballs. In fact, many of the makeup trends that have taken hold thanks to TikTok have been blush-centric. (Think of the recent “sunburn makeup” and “cold girl makeup.”)

“I love cream blushes because they give skin a more natural look,” says beauty and lifestyle creator Jawaria Khalid, who boasts over 1.2 million followers on her TikTok account, @Jawarshere. Blush has always played a key role in Khalid’s content, including her popular “Get Ready With Me” videos.

@jawarshere

Replying to @briellebelluscio WERE THEY WORTH THE HYPE??? ABSOLUTELY #charlottetilburymatteblush #blushreview

♬ original sound – Jawaria

“I always include a clip where I’m putting on blush because it’s the most hyped part of my makeup routine,” she says. “People know me as a blush girl and look forward to seeing different types of blush on my skin tone.” Anthony says he also sees a noticeable boost in views when he posts about blush, specifically the Rare Beauty formulas, even though the product is no longer a new launch. “I find that featuring those blushes is a no-brainer if I need a boost in views,” he says. “People get so invested when they see that packaging.”

Now that it has conquered contouring and taken over TikTok, what’s next for cream blush? Hopefully more inclusivity and shade offerings for deeper skin tones. “For the longest time, it was hard for people with melanated skin tones to find blush that showed up on their skin,” says Anthony. Earlier this year, makeup brand Juvia’s Place launched an ultra-pigmented cream formula in deep shades, like burgundy and burnt red, that quickly went viral on TikTok, signalling that the appetite for cream blush is still growing. And even though the beauty industry is famously fast-paced and fickle when it comes to trends, it appears that blush has some serious staying power this time around.

Shop the our favourite cream blushes below — one swipe of these velvety formulas and you’ll have bouncy, rosy, FYP-worthy cheeks.

Nars Afterglow Liquid Blush in “Orgasm”

Nars’ new buildable liquid blush comes in six wearable shades, but our top pick is, of course, Orgasm. Based on the makeup brand’s iconic powder blush shade that looks good on everyone. Promising eight hours of hydration and a lasting radiant finish, this peachy pink shade with tiny flecks of gold shimmer is a must-have.

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Summer Fridays Blush Balm Stick in “Warm Desert”

Launched earlier this summer, Summer Fridays’ new Blush Balm Sticks have already become makeup bag staples and gone viral on TikTok. And for good reason. Jam-packed with hydrating hyaluronic acid and glycerin, the colour sticks are hydrating, easy to swipe on, and can be used on cheeks, eyes and lips.

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Charlotte Tilbury Beauty Light Wand in “Pinkgasm Sunset”

The liquid blush that started our collective obsession, Charlotte Tilbury’s Beauty Light Wand, is available in an irresistible new shade called Pinkgasm Sunset. The rose-pink highlighter-blush combo is a cult fave for a reason. It’s the perfect wash of colour that can be built up for a more dramatic look, all while leaving you with a glow that can’t be beat.

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Juvia’s Place Blushed Liquid Blush in “Sweet Berries”

Available in 12 different shades, Juvia’s Place liquid blush offerings are to die for. Ranging from Barbie pink to dark burgundy, there’s truly something for everyone.

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Tower 28 BeachPlease Lip+Cheek Cream Blush in “Dream Hour”

Speaking of Barbie pink, Tower 28 has just launched a new addition to their beloved cream blush lineup: a bright pink shade called “Dream Hour.” It’s a super-hydrating and nourishing tinted balm that’s loaded with aloe vera and green tea extracts that’s suitable for even the most sensitive skin types.

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Urban Decay Hydromaniac Blush Glow Hydrator in “Wrecked”

Formulated with kombucha to detoxify and nourish skin, and marula oil to provide lightweight hydration, you can’t go wrong with this easy-to-use, on-the-go Urban Decay liquid blush. Available in six versatile shades, a little goes a long way with this buildable blush.

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Nudestix Nudies Blush Stick in “Hot Fire”

In case you needed any convincing, this is the blush formula Sofia Richie used on her wedding day. Available in a gazillion different shades and three different finishes (satin, radiant and matte), these all-over face colour sticks do it all—highlight, blush, bronze. Bonus: the brush on the other end of the stick makes this a true no-brainer.

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Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Liquid Blush in “Happy”

Ladies and gentlemen: her. The crème de la crème of liquid blushes, Rare Beauty’s Soft Pinch Liquid Blush is the “It” makeup product of a moment. If you know, you know.

Shop Now

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2023 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

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Levi’s Launches a Plant-Based 501 Jean + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/levis-plant-based-jeans/ Fri, 28 Jul 2023 15:25:34 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=474237 Levi’s grew a pair (their words, not ours!) Levi’s is putting the planet first with the launch of the Plant-Based 501 Jean. After 150 years of production, this iconic pair of denim has been reconfigured to minimize the use of synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels. Instead of finite resources, the jeans are made of […]

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Levi’s grew a pair (their words, not ours!)
levi's plant based
Photography courtesy of Levi’s

Levi’s is putting the planet first with the launch of the Plant-Based 501 Jean. After 150 years of production, this iconic pair of denim has been reconfigured to minimize the use of synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels. Instead of finite resources, the jeans are made of at least 97 per cent plant-based materials, like certified organic cotton and natural dyestuff, with a plant-based patch and ink made from wood waste.

“We have an opportunity — and a responsibility — to continually interrogate the process by which these jeans are made,” VP of design Iinnovation Paul Dillinger shared in a press release. “These jeans build on past efforts to create more circular jeans and in turn give us a foundation for future innovation.” The Plant-Based 501 Jeans will be available in store at the Toronto Eaton Center and online at levi.com starting on July 31.

Silk Laundry’s bridal collection is simple yet elegant

Photography courtesy of Silk Laundry

Calling all modern brides. Whether your big day involves a simple civil courthouse or an intimate ceremony, Silk Laundry’s relaunch of The White Series is an undeniable fit. From understated dresses to pared-back tailoring, each item is made to order, making sure your look is as special as your vows.

RELATED: 20 Bridesmaid Dresses You’ll Actually Wear Again

Boss taps F1 champion Fernando Alonso as an ambassador

Photography courtesy of BOSS

BOSS is living life in the fast lane after tapping two-time F1 champion Fernando Alonso as a brand ambassador. The label, who is already a major sponsor of the Aston Martin F1 team, will be dressing Alonso for all official events taking place off the racetrack, so expect to see snazzy BOSS signatures when tuning into any and all motorsport affairs.

RELATED: Get Up to Speed on Motorsport Style

Canada Goose launches a circular program in Canada

Photography courtesy of Canada Goose

Canada Goose’s “life” purpose involves two things: to keep the planet cold, and to keep the people on it warm. In an effort to bring this ambition to fruition, the brand has launched Generations in Canada, a recommerce platform that allows consumers to trade-in and purchase pre-loved Canada Goose garments. How does it work? Once you’ve sent in your parka, for example, it will get assessed and authenticated — then you’ll receive a Canada Goose gift card for your enjoyment. Here’s to ensuring quality pieces stay in circulation for decades.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

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Meet Sustainable, Female-Founded Knitwear Brand &Or Collective + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/and-or-collective-launch/ Fri, 14 Jul 2023 15:58:27 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=473516 &Or Collective launches luxe knitwear basics that are both chic and ethical Existing at the intersection of style and responsibility is the newly launched label, &Or Collective. Developed by a female-led team hailing from Montreal and Toronto, the zero-waste, fully recyclable knitwear collection is a meticulous curation of women’s and men’s staples. The goal? To […]

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&Or Collective launches luxe knitwear basics that are both chic and ethical
Photography courtesy of &Or Collective

Existing at the intersection of style and responsibility is the newly launched label, &Or Collective. Developed by a female-led team hailing from Montreal and Toronto, the zero-waste, fully recyclable knitwear collection is a meticulous curation of women’s and men’s staples. The goal? To create a sustainable evolution of wardrobe wonders that outlive fleeting trend cycles. Think quiet luxury, but make it ethical and accessible.

There’s a Fendi beach club in Spain

Fendi Beach Club
Photography courtesy of Fendi

Two words: European summer. It’s all anyone can talk about! And if you thought the idea couldn’t get more tempting, the world’s first Fendi beach club has just popped up in Spain. Located at the Puente Romano Beach Resort, the cabana-clad, daybed-dotted escape has been remodelled and personalised with vibrant colours, prints and emblematic stripes, all of which are Fendi signatures.

RELATED: 10 Swimwear Brands to Have On Your Radar

Smythe releases its pre-Fall 2023 collection

Smythe Pre-Fall 2023
Photography courtesy of Smythe

We know summer has only just begun, but let us entertain our love for sharply tailored blazers and rich, luxurious fabrics for just a moment! Smythe’s pre-Fall 2023 collection is out now and the vibes are where they should be. A pop of colour here. A floral pattern there. It’s got all the marvellous touches that make Smythe finery such a hit.

Enter a dream state with the Coach x Observed By Us release

Coach x Observed By Us
Photography courtesy of Coach

Coach’s collaboration with Observed By Us is the perfect excuse to get reacquainted with your inner child. Whimsical illustrations are embroidered and printed onto handbags, footwear and ready-to-wear, igniting a certain joie de vivre. Designed with the ingenuity of L.A.-based artist Jessica Herschko and Hollywood icon Kirsten Dunst, all of nature’s beautiful wonders come together for a truly one-of-a-kind collection. Pictured above is the cute and compact Rogue Crossbody 12.

Spiritsaver’s debut merch combats waste and pollution

 

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We love Fridays, and we love new music, and we love fashion. What happens when all three of these things are combined, you ask? We celebrate! Today, psychedelic R&B duo Spiritsaver’s single “Magnolia” is launching in tandem with their debut merch collection, which features a T-shirt, a snapback hat and branded mints. But this isn’t any ordinary merch. It’s been designed in collaboration with This Is Your Brain On Plants using upcycled, unreleased Yeezy Gap pieces.

ICYMI, when Gap cut ties with Kanye West, they decided to incinerate his entire collection. Spiritsaver’s team pulled some strings to rescue the deadstock. So not only will you be supporting Toronto-based musicians, you’ll also be helping to combat waste.

Knix and The Birds Papaya release a new Thigh Saver collection

Photography courtesy of Knix x The Birds Papaya

Knix and The Birds Papaya are like that dynamic duo you find in a cute coming-of-age film — each time they come together, you can’t help but smile. Take their latest brainchild: A limited-edition Thigh Saver collection that has the same chafe-preventing super powers as the original Thigh Savers, only with stylish stretch lace. The pieces are available in black, papaya pink, beige and leopard print, and range from sizes XS to 4XL.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

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Lizzo’s Yitty Taps Into Barbiecore + Other Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/lizzo-yitty-barbiecore/ Fri, 30 Jun 2023 13:00:47 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=472841 Be a Barbie girl with Yitty Barbie this, Barbie that… it seems like none of us can get enough! And certainly not Lizzo’s shapewear brand Yitty which just released the ultimate Barbiecore capsule. Aptly named the Summer Doll House collection, bright pinks and neon yellows feature boldly on the brand’s best selling styles, which of […]

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Be a Barbie girl with Yitty
Photography courtesy of Yitty

Barbie this, Barbie that… it seems like none of us can get enough! And certainly not Lizzo’s shapewear brand Yitty which just released the ultimate Barbiecore capsule. Aptly named the Summer Doll House collection, bright pinks and neon yellows feature boldly on the brand’s best selling styles, which of course are made to fit every size and body type.

Allbirds releases a visual of the M0.0NSHOT

Photography courtesy of Allbirds

Allbirds has given us a first look at a world’s first. Just three months after announcing the big news that they’d be releasing M0.0NSHOT, a net zero carbon shoe coming in spring 2024, the sustainably focused brand has released a photo of what the kicks will look like. Clean and minimal is one way to describe this first-of-its-kind shoe.

But Allbrids isn’t just interested in breaking records. They’re clearing a path for others to follow. Case in point: the recipe to making this shoe has also been made public, so anyone can access it and use their work. After all, according to Allbirds, the shoe’s “meaning is the same as its footprint — zero — if it’s just [us] using these breakthroughs.”

Séda drops its summer capsule

Photography courtesy of Séda

Canadian outerwear brand Séda has released a limited-edition luxury capsule for summer. Featuring four silk bombers and a tailored jacket in seasonal colourways like lakeside blue and sunset gold, the breezy collection is perfect for capturing summer’s brightest moments.

“Summer is a time when the warmth of the wind touches your skin, and when our eyes and souls cannot get enough of magnificent sunsets on the lakes,” shares Seda Rafilovich, founder and designer of Séda. “Our short-lived summer days are cherished here, and I wanted to create a luxury offering to capture that feeling, which you can wear lakeside, cityside and through all your summer adventures.”

Piper & Skye and Inversa Leathers are raising the bar for luxury leather goods

Photography courtesy of Piper & Skye

Accessories label Piper & Skye is known for creating sustainable luxury bags, ethically sourcing materials like pirarucu and alligator leather. Now, to push the boundaries a little bit further, the brand has partnered with Inversa Leathers, a regenerative materials company that strategically and responsibly creates leather from invasive, ecosystem-destroying species. The main focus of this collaboration? Reclaiming the Florida Everglades.

The new collection features two eco-conscious Burmese python handbag designs, which work toward reversing the grave effects the Southeast Asian python has had on the Floridian wetlands. Ultimately, this trailblazing brand alliance marries luxury and style with a commitment to healing the planet and restoring affected ecosystems.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

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The Surprising History of Signet Rings https://fashionmagazine.com/style/signet-rings/ Mon, 26 Jun 2023 13:00:49 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=472386 When they say “Kiss the ring,” it’s not a wedding band they’re talking about. Neither is it an engagement, purity, mourning, adultery, poison-concealing squirt or any of the many other kinds of signifying rings that proliferated from the Middle Ages through to the Victorian era. No, the ring that lackeys press their lips to in […]

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When they say “Kiss the ring,” it’s not a wedding band they’re talking about. Neither is it an engagement, purity, mourning, adultery, poison-concealing squirt or any of the many other kinds of signifying rings that proliferated from the Middle Ages through to the Victorian era. No, the ring that lackeys press their lips to in obeisance is always a signet, or seal, ring — “signet” comes from the Latin word for “sign,” as in sign of success. Think Super Bowl rings. Or the Pope’s ring, a.k.a. the Ring of the Fisherman.

RELATED: Jewellers Are Using Kintsugi to Upcycle Broken Gems

It’s usually big

A signet ring can be a chunky thing, often worn on the pinky (like King Charles III), index finger or thumb — or sometimes all (like Liberace). Its singular characteristic is a flat top or bezel of varying shapes with some symbol of authority inscribed into the gold face or sometimes into a hard stone, like jasper. For example, a family crest in intaglio could serve as a signature. By being pressed into sealing wax, the engraving on the signet ring invested documents or letters with the authority of the ring holder, essentially encrypting them. This was true up until the 19th century.

Millennia earlier, Egyptian pharaohs had their names set in signet rings made of stone, like steatite, or sometimes solid gold. Earlier still, the Mesopotamians in 3500 BC wore signet rings that they pressed into tablets of wet clay as a way of signing them. Centuries later, beginning in 2900 BC, the Minoans did the same with signet rings carved out of ivory. This is why we kiss the ring — because the signet ring is power jewellery for the ages.

It functioned as a signature until…

Unlike some other jewellery, the signet ring was never merely ornamental. Instead, it expressed the self, especially the legal self. Signet rings were stand-ins for one’s identity and, by extension, conferred that identity to land deeds, loan declarations, wills — anything that required validation from someone influential.

This is why, in some cultures, signet rings were destroyed when their owner died rather than handed down. The papal signet ring was always smashed with a ceremonial hammer with each passing — and still is. Historically, the signet ring’s potential for wreaking posthumous havoc was too dangerous.

…more people learned how to read

By the 17th century, many people were literate enough to authenticate documents with their written signature so signet rings became less of a functional item and more of a fashion statement. And like the signet rings of old, the 19th-century versions were personalized with the owner’s initials or monogram and began to be set with showy gems, both precious and semi-precious.

It’s sexy, too

“He spent the time examining Dickie’s rings. He liked them both: a large rectangular green stone set in gold on the third finger of his right hand, and on the little finger of the other hand a signet ring….” In The Talented Mr. Ripley, Dickie Greenleaf’s pinky ring represents family money. It signals to Patricia Highsmith’s sociopath, Tom Ripley, that Greenleaf is his for the taking.

Besides wealth and influence, signet rings telegraph quintessential maleness, too (the homosexual undercurrents between Ripley and Greenleaf notwithstanding). Historically invested with wealth, power and maleness, a signet ring worn on a woman’s finger suggests radically enticing things, like empowerment and of-the-moment gender fluidity. Highsmith, herself an out lesbian, wore a signet ring on her pinky. And signet rings worn on the thumb read as idiosyncratic and sexually unconventional.

So, why are signet rings so in? Because they’ve never been out. Of fashion, that is — or anything else.

Below are nine stylish signet rings you can wear forever.

 

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Summer 2023 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

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Get to Know Anishinaabe Activist and Storyteller Sarain Fox https://fashionmagazine.com/style/sarain-fox-2023/ Mon, 19 Jun 2023 15:14:28 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=472028 Anishinaabe activist and storyteller Sarain Fox has appeared on Canada’s Drag Race and in ad campaigns for Canada Goose. In her latest documentary, she turns her lens to Indigenous elders, youth and queerness. Below, FASHION spoke with Fox on the power of documentaries, dismantling binaries and life as a mother. RELATED: Get to Know Zaldy, […]

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Anishinaabe activist and storyteller Sarain Fox has appeared on Canada’s Drag Race and in ad campaigns for Canada Goose. In her latest documentary, she turns her lens to Indigenous elders, youth and queerness. Below, FASHION spoke with Fox on the power of documentaries, dismantling binaries and life as a mother.

RELATED: Get to Know Zaldy, the Designer Dressing RuPaul

 

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You are an artist, an activist, an ambassador, a filmmaker and now, with the birth of your son in February, a mother of two. In all your work, the goal is about empowering Indigenous voices. Has that goal changed over time?

“I would say it has evolved. In the beginning of my career, I saw very little representation. When the Canada Goose campaign with me and my mom came out five years ago, it was the first time that multiple Indigenous people had been featured in an international billboard campaign — ever. Indigenous content wasn’t as hot as it is right now. You look at Ashley Callingbull and Quannah Chasinghorse…. When an Indigenous person has something amazing going on, we’re really seeing that get amplified now.”

Why are documentaries the best form of storytelling right now?

“When Rise [a TV series hosted by Fox] came out in 2017, I was very aware of the impact it had, how young and old people alike felt instantly seen and empowered and how non-Indigenous people felt motivated to learn more and connect. Now, the two things I’m obsessed with capturing are young people and elders. That’s not by accident. My son and my daughter only have my auntie Mary and my mother, so I really only have a decade to capture as many pieces of who I am, who this world is and who our elders are before it’s all lost forever. Man, I don’t know if many people live with that kind of pressure, but my reaction to it is to make documentaries and put them out as quickly as possible.”

 

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Your latest documentary, Veracity: Indigiqueer, follows Banaise-Kwe Henry, a youth from Kettle and Stony Point First Nation. What did it feel like to make this film?

“It confirmed what I’ve always known: that colonization brought the labels and English terminology about gender, and it even brought the closet, metaphorically and literally — we didn’t have closets. I also really felt the weight of the responsibility of carrying Banaise’s story. We were going to follow her as she came out to everyone, but that never happened, and I love that it didn’t. Because that’s not how it happens. These big moments happen slowly and bit by bit.”

In June, we’re celebrating Pride and National Indigenous History Month. How do you view this time, being both queer and Indigenous?

“I always call it my busiest month of the year. As I reclaim my identity more and more, I don’t separate my Indigeneity from my queerness. I want to embody Pride and Indigenous peoples month as one identity. Even in the queer community, we are starting to see more space being made and more acceptance and more curiosity about how our two communities can align with, protect and become allies for one another.”

Did you have any queer Indigenous representation to look up to?

“No. When I was 15, I moved to Toronto’s Church Street in the heart of the Village, and my protectors were all queens. So much of the magic of that moment for me and my safety was a queer community. I think less about Indigenous queerness and more like the whole scene was what I had to look up to.”

What has your own queer journey been like?

“I identify as fluid. LGBTQ2S+ is an English acronym, and I’ve really found my freedom in letting go of the colonial ideas of queerness, which have been very hurtful. Within my own family, I’ve always felt like I belong. I don’t have some big coming-out story because I just feel like I’ve always been as I am. I was exposed to queerness from a very young age — queer couples and queer families. I’m grateful for that narrative existing because I’ve always felt normal in my own skin.

“I was bullied because I’m Indigenous, so for a very long time, there was no way I was going to identify as queer because I was already fighting the othering of being Indigenous. I had to find how to blur that intersection in my own life to find freedom. I feel like society can see my queerness and accept it when I’m with a woman and they have a hard time seeing and accepting it when I’m in a relationship with a man who doesn’t identify as straight. That’s been the hardest for me, as I have the family I love.”

 

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You have what looks like a “traditional family” on the outside, but how should we understand that?

“Queer folks are trying to dismantle binaries, yet we are still trapped in them. For me, the only way that I can really explain this is through my Indigenous identity. I identify as a Kwe, which is the traditional Anishinaabe word for ‘woman.’ It has nothing to do with sexual identity and everything to do with who I am as a life giver. My children will have the opportunity to identify however they need, and, more importantly, my home will always be open to all human beings.”

How has the birth of your son changed your family dynamic?

“With the second baby, there’s still that joy and excitement, but it’s a little more laid-back and your priorities get very clear. That’s been a beautiful gift for me, as an artist, because it’s given me a laser focus. And then there’s the fact that I will never be on time again.” [Laughs]

Lastly, which Indigenous designers should we have on our radar?

“Right now, I’m obsessed with The Beaded Hero; she makes incredible depictions of pop culture in her beadwork. I love Emme Studio. I’ve been working with people who are more known for regalia and traditional garments, like master beader Roberta Anderson, and Michelle Reed of MReed Designs just made an incredible strap dress for me; we collaborated on the design. The strap dress really represents the first form of the garment we wore in the 1800s that was a real mixture of who we would have been and who we were becoming.”

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Summer 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Elsa Hosk Drops Her Atelier Gowns + Other Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/elsa-hosk-dresses-helsa-atelier/ Fri, 16 Jun 2023 16:38:34 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=472174 Helsa Atelier by Elsa Hosk dresses are here Leave it to a successful supermodel to turn pop culture’s most iconic red carpet moments into a lineup of evening wear. Elsa Hosk has designed seven exclusive gowns that nod to the ’90s and early 2000s for her newly launched collection, Helsa Atelier. Sharing her sketches to […]

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Helsa Atelier by Elsa Hosk dresses are here
Photography courtesy of Helsa

Leave it to a successful supermodel to turn pop culture’s most iconic red carpet moments into a lineup of evening wear. Elsa Hosk has designed seven exclusive gowns that nod to the ’90s and early 2000s for her newly launched collection, Helsa Atelier. Sharing her sketches to Instagram earlier this week and teasing samples of the Elsa Hosk dresses at the Cannes Film Festival back in May, Hosk has been building buzz around these frocks for some time — and rightfully so. Each one is a breathtaking compilation of lovely fabrics and romantic silhouettes that are hand-sewn, hand-beaded and made to order. The collection can be shopped through Revolve and Fwrd.

Aldo and Barbie team up for an exclusive collection

Photography courtesy of Aldo

How much pink is too much pink? According to Aldo, who is *stepping* into the Barbie universe, the limit does not exist. The footwear and accessories brand just announced they will be launching an exclusive collection in collaboration with Barbie on June 29, and it’s definitely pretty in pink. From eye-catching rhinestones to playful “B” charms, the assortment of Y2K-inspired pumps, handbags and costume jewellery are turning up the heat in anticipation of the Barbie film’s big release next month.

Louis Vuitton and Sotheby’s auction off 22 unique Artycapucines

Photography courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s ongoing Artycapucines Collection gives a diverse range of contemporary artists the opportunity to bring their ingenuity to an iconic style: the timeless Capucines handbag. Now in a partnership with Sotheby’s, 22 one-of-one Artycapuchines will be auctioned off to benefit a wide range of charities and non-governmental organizations, chosen by the artists themselves, that support poverty reduction, disaster relief, education, refugee rights and other pressing issues. The auction will be open for online bidding between June 28 and July 12 at Sothebys.com, and winning bidders will receive their collectible keepsake in a Monogram Louis Vuitton Boîte Chapeau, signed by the artist.

Reformation releases a high-end capsule collection

Photography courtesy of Reformation

Is someone willing to invite us to their Italian wedding? Because we need an excuse to wear Reformation’s new high fashion capsule. Designed in collaboration with Laura Vassar, co-founder of Brock Collection, this curated assortment perfectly toes the line of elevated yet minimalistic (yes, you could say it’s a wink to quiet luxury). Titled The Collection, each piece is created with sustainability top of mind using deadstock fabrics, linens and Naia silk.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is Tiffany & Co.’s new ambassador

Photography courtesy of Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co. has welcomed model and entrepreneur Rosie Huntington-Whiteley into the family as its newest house ambassador. Known for her sophistication and glamour, Huntington-Whiteley is photographed in the brand’s latest high jewellery collection, Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue, wearing an incredible diamond-encrusted shell necklace. It features an innovative clasp that can be worn in four unique styles.

Make space for Frank And Oak’s Circular Denim collection

Photography courtesy of Frank And Oak

In the wise words of Frank And Oak, “sometimes going in circles means moving forward.” With that, the label has released a lineup of shorts, high-rise jeans, a skirt and a jacket as part of their Circular Denim collection, which is made using 95 per cent less water, 50 per cent fewer chemicals and 79 per cent less energy than standard denim-making methods. Each piece is entirely recyclable, and crafted with organic and salvaged cotton fibres.

Uniqlo opens its first store in Ottawa

Photography courtesy of Uniqlo

Uniqlo has officially opened the doors to its very first Ottawa location, and it’s got quite the list of fixings. To start, the CF Rideau Centre store spans over 15,000 square feet and features its lineup of LifeWear for men, women and kids. The brand has also partnered with the Ottawa Art Gallery as an official sponsor this summer to make art more accessible to the community. And for anyone who finds themselves in the Canadian capital this weekend, shoppers will experience a variety of fun-filled in-store festivities and exclusive gifts with purchase through to June 18.

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What Do We Get Wrong About Gender-Fluid Fashion? https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/identity-politics/gender-fluid-dressing-essay/ Tue, 13 Jun 2023 19:18:48 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=471843 I’m a fat non-binary Black person, and my personal style has been complicated. In my late teens and early 20s, when I identified as straight and cisgender, my style was deeply, deeply feminine — think Katy Perry circa her debut album. I had a penchant for 1950s-inspired fit-and-flare outfits, carefully showcasing my body in “the […]

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I’m a fat non-binary Black person, and my personal style has been complicated. In my late teens and early 20s, when I identified as straight and cisgender, my style was deeply, deeply feminine — think Katy Perry circa her debut album. I had a penchant for 1950s-inspired fit-and-flare outfits, carefully showcasing my body in “the right way” (read “as a woman”).

RELATED: Who Can Wear Gender-Fluid Fashion?

When I came out as queer and pansexual, and then later as non-binary, it was deeply confronting — it felt like an existential style crisis! After a lifetime of conforming, I wasn’t sure if my entire personal style had to change. This Lydia didn’t have to look a certain way — they were exactly who they should be, whatever felt right in the moment. But when I take a look at the “gender-fluid” collections on the market, they feel very limiting. And I’m certainly not the only person who feels this way.

According to The Business of Fashion, about 56 per cent of global Gen-Zers have shopped for clothing that is not classified as a specific gender, and research conducted by Klarna has found that around 70 per cent of consumers state they’re interested in buying gender-fluid fashion in the future. With that in mind, brands have risen to the occasion.

Everyone from Adidas to Nordstrom has created a unisex collection, the most recent of which is Lizzo’s Yitty gender-affirming shapewear. (It was announced in March and launches this summer.) And while this is all great (and it really is great!), there’s a lot that these brands still get wrong.

Photography via Launchmetrics.com/spotlight

The gender norms we’ve come to know (women wear skirts, dresses and heels; men wear suits and flat shoes) became popular around the 19th century in Western countries, with strict rules for who gets to wear what. Before that time, there was far more flexibility in Europe with regard to gendered dress. Children of all genders wore floofy little dresses, and it was fashionable for men to wear heels.

As Europeans colonized most of the globe, they encountered many cultures that embraced clothing with gender norms that differed from those of Europe. Deeming these norms primitive and uncivilized, Europeans made sure they disappeared. More than a hundred years later, society is seemingly stuck in these rigid ideas. Even worse, somewhere along the way, it has created these “rules” for what gender-fluid fashion should look like.

For example, why does gender-fluid fashion always have to be drab? Where are the bright colours? Where are the fun patterns?

The “neutral” in gender neutral is often taken quite literally! Fluidity doesn’t exclusively mean a lack of colour or patterns! And yet there have been endless gender-neutral sweatsuit launches in a unisex version of khakis, creams and charcoal.

Not everyone who is gender fluid wants to wear clothes that are the “opposite” of their gender assignment at birth.

There is also an onslaught of menswear under the gender-fluid banner — jeans, collared shirts, overalls and trousers. To suggest that someone gender fluid only wants to find men’s clothing sized down is quite a limited view. This perspective reflects the idea that the default desired gender expression is as close to a cis male as possible. It’s ridiculous to leave out items that are more feminine; gender-fluid style should be inclusive of all clothing.

And let’s make one thing clear: Not everyone who is gender fluid wants to wear clothes that are the “opposite” of their gender assignment at birth (for example, a “woman” wearing men’s clothes). Those who identify in the gender-fluid spectrum have a multitude of approaches to how their gender is expressed — a fact that is not any different from folks who identify as cis.

We all navigate our relationship to gender in differing approaches and importance, regardless of our gender identity. My love of pink and tulle doesn’t nullify my identity as a non-binary person; it is my own personalized expression.

My gender journey has involved loosening the reins on what I think I should wear with my body type. I feel most incredible when I allow myself to be imaginative — to let the stylist in me explore looks that are less prescriptive. Some days, my outfit is loud and over-the-top; other days, a tee with jeans feels amazing. It’s not one or the other — much like a non-binary viewpoint.

Clothing is inanimate and without a gender unless we assign it one. It has taken some time, but I’ve realized that my personal style doesn’t have to conform. And I’m hopeful for a future in which everyone is able to express themselves exactly as they want to, without judgment, in whatever clothing is right for them.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Summer 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Louis Vuitton Launches Digital Collectibles + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/louis-vuitton-digital-collectibles/ Fri, 09 Jun 2023 17:48:50 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=471777 Louis Vuitton gets into luxury digital collectibles Louis Vuitton’s iconic and storied trunk is launching into the metaverse. In this new voyage, so to speak, the French fashion house is carving out a space on Web 3.0 to house digital collectibles within the VIA Treasure Trunk. It’s basically a luxurious NFT. Through ownership (which comes […]

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Louis Vuitton gets into luxury digital collectibles

Louis Vuitton’s iconic and storied trunk is launching into the metaverse. In this new voyage, so to speak, the French fashion house is carving out a space on Web 3.0 to house digital collectibles within the VIA Treasure Trunk. It’s basically a luxurious NFT. Through ownership (which comes at a cost of €39,000), you will have special access to new products and experiences that will be revealed through immersive launches at regular intervals throughout the year. What’s more, each of these very exclusive Louis Vuitton goodies — quantities will be limited to just a few hundred — are unique and, like a tangible trunk, come with a key to secure it.

Aaniin arrives at Stackt Market in Toronto

Photography courtesy of Aaniin

What better way to celebrate Indigenous History Month than to learn the stories of Indigenous brands and shop their goods? Newly launched department concept shop Aaniin is coming to Toronto’s Stackt Market on June 10, and it features over 35 brands by Indigenous makers. From Lesley Hampton and Section 35 to Aaniin’s very own merch, there’s much to see.

Fendi wants to know your star sign

Photography courtesy of Fendi

Astrology aficionados, listen up. Fendi is introducing an astrology capsule collection this summer, and it’s catered to all of the zodiac signs. The assortment of swim and beachwear features astrological prints originally drawn by the late Karl Lagerfeld in a chilled-out colour palette of white, pink, blue, brown, orange and black.

Duer sets up shop on Ossington Avenue

Photography courtesy of Deur

Vancouver-based apparel brand Duer, known for its environmentally conscious Performance Denim and other comfort driven lifestyle pieces, has opened up a new location on Toronto’s buzzy Ossington strip. Perched within a bright orange building, the store is stocked with the brand’s entire lineup of pants, tops, jumpsuits and outerwear.

Canada Goose opens an immersive art installation

Photography courtesy of Canada Goose

Canada Goose has partnered with local multidisciplinary artist Moya Garrison-Msingwana to create an immersive installation inspired by craftsmanship and sustainability. Titled Stitched in Ages, the figures are constructed out of upcycled Canada Goose fabrics and materials to mimic humans and draw attention to the importance of the human impact on our environment. See it for yourself at Toronto’s Harbourfront Centre; it’s on display from now until June 26.

Mindful Pigs’ new collection will have you thinking

 

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Genderless vegan brand Mindful Pigs is releasing its second-ever collection, Wonders of the Cosmos, and it’s inspired by the interconnection of everything in the universe. But don’t be fooled by the sounds of its otherworldliness — the pieces are understated enough to be timeless wardrobe staples. Bonus: They transcend seasons and can be worn all throughout the year.

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Gap Joins the Barbieverse + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/gap-barbie-collection/ Fri, 26 May 2023 15:50:44 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=470865 Gap reveals a Barbie collection As the discourse around the new Barbie movie reaches a fever pitch (I mean, have you seen the trailer!?), Gap has gone ahead and made it a family affair. In a new collaboration, Gap and Barbie join forces on a bold and bright-pink collection, featuring a range of apparel and […]

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Gap reveals a Barbie collection
Gap x Barbie
Photography courtesy of Gap

As the discourse around the new Barbie movie reaches a fever pitch (I mean, have you seen the trailer!?), Gap has gone ahead and made it a family affair. In a new collaboration, Gap and Barbie join forces on a bold and bright-pink collection, featuring a range of apparel and accessories for the whole family, including pet clothes.

Mejuri has a new flagship

Mejuri
Photography courtesy of Mejuri

Like FASHION, Mejuri calls Toronto home, and now the beloved and buzzy Ossington Avenue is site of its stunning flagship store. Stop by this weekend to check out the new space and add some bling to your spring wardrobe. Need a recommendation? Launching in tandem with the shop is the Toronto Mosaic Dôme Ring, which was inspired by the city and will be sold exclusively at the Ossington location.

Joyin Rey wants you to get that bag

 

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Everyone needs a mammoth-sized bag that can carry all of their belongings, hopes and dreams, right? This week, Toronto-based label Joyin Rey has unveiled upcycled vinyl handbags that can fit just about everything, including the kitchen sink! But what makes the That Bag collection (available on May 30) truly special? It began as an array of vinyl scraps sourced from a local upholstery manufacturer, so each sack is uniquely one of a kind.

This Toronto-based event is all about sustainability and fashion

Fashion Takes Action ReMode
Graphic courtesy of Fashion Takes Action

Conscious fashion enthusiasts, listen up! On May 28, non-profit organization Fashion Takes Action is hosting ReMode, an event focused on promoting the longevity and circularity of clothes. Taking place at Evergreen Brickworks in Toronto, the full day event will feature industry leaders discussing a range of sustainability topics, as well as a market full of vendors that expertly reuse, resell, repurpose, upcycle, rent and repair garments. Bring the well-loved pieces that you’re ready to part ways with, as the event will also have a ReFashion clothing swap.

Lululemon releases a powerhouse running shoe

Lululemon Blissfeel Trail runners
Photography courtesy of Lululemon

Lululemon’s latest running shoe, Blissfeel Trail, has got you covered on all terrains, from smooth pavement to rugged turf. As the brand’s first-ever road-to-trail women’s running shoe, these kicks address the gender gap in performance athletics and celebrate just how capable women are. It’s a perfect pairing if you’re planning to run the brand’s six-day ultramarathon next International Women’s Day (March 8, 2024). Let the training begin.

Lambert launches a new line of bags for summer

Lambert Spring Summer 2023
Photography courtesy of Lambert

Our wish for a never-ending summer may never come true, but Lambert’s arguably more attainable Soleil Soleil collection certainly helps. The fun, colourful assortment of purses is versatile enough to withstand the following: summer activities, travel plans and nights out on the town with your besties.

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Fendi by Marc Jacobs Is Here + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/fendi-by-marc-jacobs/ Fri, 12 May 2023 17:17:45 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=470143 Fendi by Marc Jacobs officially launches Fendi has had some major designer collaborations in recent years (think: Versace, Tiffany & Co. and Skims), but its new partnership with Marc Jacobs is an undeniable highlight. As part of the Fendi Baguette’s 25th-anniversary celebrations, the Italian luxury house enlisted the talents of the American designer to reinvent […]

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Fendi by Marc Jacobs officially launches
FENDI by Marc Jacobs
Photography courtesy of Fendi

Fendi has had some major designer collaborations in recent years (think: Versace, Tiffany & Co. and Skims), but its new partnership with Marc Jacobs is an undeniable highlight. As part of the Fendi Baguette’s 25th-anniversary celebrations, the Italian luxury house enlisted the talents of the American designer to reinvent the iconic bag and other Fendi staples. The result is a marriage of uptown chic and downtown cool that adds new life to old favourites.

Aurora James’s new book Wildflower: A Memoir is available, wherever books are sold

 

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Call it a labour of love. After two and a half years of writing, re-writing and editing, Wildflower: A Memoir has finally hit shelves. Newly-minted author Aurora James (FASHION’s April 2023 cover star) recounts her life so far as she navigates a world of uncertainty in the fashion industry and beyond. Through sharing the challenges she’s faced, the entrepreneur and activist hopes to provide inspiration and guidance for each and every reader.

Smythe unveils a Love is Love blazer ahead of Pride month

Photography courtesy of Smythe

Can one blazer save the world? No. But Smythe’s new shrunken blazer is giving us the energy we need to do so. Embroidered with the words “Love is Love” in rainbow thread, this new release comes just in time for all of the Pride activities on the horizon this summer. What’s more, a portion of profits made will be donated to It Gets Better Canada, a charity focused on uplifting the nation’s 2SLGBTQ+ youth.

Séda and the SHN Foundation work towards improving geriatric healthcare

Photography courtesy of Séda

Say philanthropic fashion partnership five times fast. Quite the tongue twister! Another great challenge? Caring for the elderly. In a new joint mission between outerwear brand Séda and the Scarborough Health Network (SHN) Foundation, geriatric healthcare is brought to the forefront. For the rest of 2023, a portion of proceeds from the sale of any Séda garment will be donated to the SHN Foundation to recognize the importance of caring for an elder.

An outdoorsy collaboration has blossomed

Photography courtesy of Roots x Alder

Whether you’re a hiking hero or pitching a tent for the first time, Roots and Alder Apparel want to welcome you to the great outdoors. The collaboration combines the outdoor heritage of Roots with Alder’s ingenuity to challenge old-school stereotypes of who is considered “outdoorsy.” Expect to see 11 size-inclusive pieces that serve both form and function like this fresh spin on a classic sweatshirt.

With files from Annika Lautens

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Pleats Please Issey Miyake Turns 30 + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/pleats-please-issey-miyake-30-anniversary/ Fri, 28 Apr 2023 16:13:15 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=469298 It’s time to party with Pleats Please Issey Miyake It’s hard to believe that Pleats Please Issey Miyake turns 30 this May. The iconic label — which, since its inception, has strived to create clothes full of freedom and joy — is celebrating with a special series of pleated pieces that are covered in abstract […]

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It’s time to party with Pleats Please Issey Miyake
Pleats Please Issey Miyake 30 anniversary
Photography courtesy of Pleats Please Issey Miyake

It’s hard to believe that Pleats Please Issey Miyake turns 30 this May. The iconic label — which, since its inception, has strived to create clothes full of freedom and joy — is celebrating with a special series of pleated pieces that are covered in abstract lettering and colourful hues. Combined with its stretchy, comfy and easy-to-care-for fabric, you’ll surely be hitting the dance floor in these wares.

Kotn arrives in Toronto’s Leslieville

 

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Right on cue with Toronto’s spring awakening, Kotn is opening its second retail location in the city on May 6. Set in the heart of Leslieville, locals and visitors alike will be able to peruse the relaxed yet polished storefront, which not only features the latest Kotn styles, but has a rotation of artisanal rugs, textiles and other unique home goods. What’s more, the shop is connected to a new Maha’s café. So as sunshine strolling and outdoor shopping resumes, re-up your summer wardrobe with the best quality tees and tanks (cotton-blended, of course) with an Egyptian-inspired cardamom latte in hand.

H&M’s Curvy Collection is here

Photography courtesy of H&M

Flattering, comfortable and irresistible is how H&M describes their newest release. Made to embrace every curve, the Curvy Collection is designed with extra room at the hips and thighs, with a tapered waistline for a sculpted effect. Prepare for a summer of fun, because this array of dresses and fresh fits come in the brightest of neon hues.

Holt Renfrew is offering Obakki home goods (and more) for a limited time

 

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What’s so good about home goods? They’re an extension of our style and personality, of course. In an exciting collaboration, Holt Renfrew’s Bloor Street location in Toronto is hosting an Obakki pop-up featuring a beautiful selection of thoughtfully designed and handmade homeware. Whether it’s a new vase or a set of stemmed glasses, it may just be time for a little redecorating.

Inland’s Spring 2023 pop-up is a must-visit

Photography courtesy of Inland

Inland’s founder and director Sarah Power is elevating the Canadian fashion shopping experience, one curated pop-up at a time. This year’s marketplace will be held in a gorgeous space at 157 Bloor Street West within Toronto’s premium shopping district and will run from May 5 to 7. Not only will more than 70 of Canada’s most defining brands be showcased (think Dorian Who, Heirloom Hats, Lesley Hampton, Narces and Christopher Bates), but Toronto Metropolitan University fashion students and alumni will be showcasing and selling their concepts and designs, too.

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A Look Back at the Best Fashion Moments in Met Gala History https://fashionmagazine.com/style/celebrity-style/met-gala-best-looks/ Mon, 17 Apr 2023 14:30:17 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=400313 This year's event may not be going ahead but it is still the first Monday in May after all.

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This article was originally published in May 2020 and has been updated. 

Mention the first Monday in May to any fashion lover and they’ll immediately know what you’re talking about. Each year, the star-studded Met Gala takes place on this date, in partnership with The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and brings with it some of the most incredible fashion looks we’ll see in the year. From larger-than-life ballgowns to radical suits, there’s no limit on self-expression on style.

RELATED: The Best Met Gala Beauty Looks Ever — Period

Ahead of the 2023 Met Gala, we dove into the event’s archives to relive some of the Met ball’s most memorable fashion moments. Ahead, see more than 90 of the Met Gala best looks of all time.

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Simons Taps Into Quiet Luxury + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/edito-simons-quiet-luxury/ Fri, 14 Apr 2023 19:06:08 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=468772 The new Édito by Simons drop is a collection of quiet luxury Hot off the heels of its successful debut, Simons boutiques are rolling out a second Édito collection. The assortment is spring-focused and features 10 pieces made out of high quality textiles, rich colours and timeless silhouettes. From the botanical watercolour silk dress to […]

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The new Édito by Simons drop is a collection of quiet luxury
Photography courtesy of Simons

Hot off the heels of its successful debut, Simons boutiques are rolling out a second Édito collection. The assortment is spring-focused and features 10 pieces made out of high quality textiles, rich colours and timeless silhouettes. From the botanical watercolour silk dress to the sophisticated poplin collared shirt, the discreet-yet-luxurious clothing is surely a sign of the times.

Knix releases new leak-proof swimwear

Photography courtesy of Knix

Knix has debuted their 2023 swimwear and it’s got everything you need for a carefree summer. From built-in Leakproof Technology to proper bra support, these vibrant bathers are both fab and functional. What’s more, the collection comes in sizes XS to 4XL, with a cup range from A to G.

Pucci and The Webster launch a festival-inspired capsule collection

Photography courtesy of Pucci x The Webster

Here’s a partnership that is as groovy as it is chic: Italian fashion house Pucci and luxury multi-brand retailer The Webster have come together for an exclusive collection. Inspired by one of the most attended music festivals in the world, Coachella, and aligning with the opening of The Webster’s Palm Springs location, the Iride capsule perfectly captures a vibrant, free-spirited and playful energy.

The Terry Fox Foundation collaborates with Ryan Reynolds on a limited-edition T-shirt

Photography courtesy of the Terry Fox Foundation

Ryan Reynolds has teamed up with the Terry Fox Foundation to make an impact on Canadian cancer research. With the help of the Fox family, Reynolds has designed a limited-edition #DearTerry T-shirt which has already helped raise over $1 million dollars in pre-sales alone. What’s more, it’s kicking off a series of inspirational #DearTerry messages from the nation. In Reynolds’s own message, he said, “I’ve been taking part in the Terry Fox Run since second grade and can’t think of a more enduring and lovely legacy for one person.”

Joe Fresh and Roxy Earle launch a vacation-ready collection

Photography courtesy of Joe Fresh

Whether or not you’re jet-setting this summer, get ready for some pre-vacay jitters. Hotel Roxy, Joe Fresh’s latest collection in collaboration with long-time partner Roxy Earle, is a one-stop shop for all your summer travel needs — from swimwear and activewear to accessories and footwear (which now goes up to a size 11!). “For many, it’s not easy finding great vacation wear that is size inclusive and [at] a great price point,” said Earle in a press release from the brand. “I have always found ‘girls trips’ and bachelorettes difficult… I have worked hand-in-hand with Joe Fresh so you don’t have to feel that way.”

Zoë Kravitz stars in the This is Tiffany campaign

Photography courtesy of Tiffany & Co.

In Tiffany & Co.’s latest campaign, This is Tiffany, individual style leads the way. Just take a look at the house ambassadors donning pieces from the Tiffany T and Tiffany HardWear collections. Zoë Kravitz is rocking an edgy-yet-feminine chain link, BTS’s Jimin is sporting cool, white gold tones, and Gal Gadot is dotted with dainty diamonds.

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Eloquii Drops Its First Swimwear Collection + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/eloquii-swimwear/ Fri, 31 Mar 2023 15:26:49 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=468181 Eloquii collaborates with influencer Gabi Fresh on a punchy swimwear collection Eloquii has just launched a swimsuit collection that deserves applause for its unique designs and fiery colourways. Designed in collaboration with Gabi Fresh, one of the first influencers to provide a resource, voice and safe space for fashion lovers sizes 14+, the statement suits […]

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Eloquii collaborates with influencer Gabi Fresh on a punchy swimwear collection
Photography courtesy of Eloquii

Eloquii has just launched a swimsuit collection that deserves applause for its unique designs and fiery colourways. Designed in collaboration with Gabi Fresh, one of the first influencers to provide a resource, voice and safe space for fashion lovers sizes 14+, the statement suits and graphic resort wear will have you looking for the soonest flight south.

The Louis Vuitton and Yayoi Kusama collaboration continues

Photography courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Doting fans of Yayoi Kusama will be pleased to hear about Drop 2 of the Japanese artist’s collaboration with Louis Vuitton. Even more handbags, like the iconic Capucines and monogrammed Neverfull, are covered in new variations of radiant pumpkins, flowers and infinity dots, welcoming the brave and bold into Kusama’s avant-garde world.

Allbirds creates the world’s first net zero carbon shoe

Photography courtesy of Allbirds

While aiming for a greener future, Allbirds shot for the moon — and didn’t miss. The eco-conscious brand has created the world’s first ever net zero carbon shoe, aptly named M0.0NSHOT, and it’s completely restructuring the footwear game. “We believe this will revolutionize the path to net zero, and act as rocket-fuel for the entire industry,” said Hana Kajimura, head of sustainability at Allbirds, in a press release. “The scientists have shown us what’s possible — now it’s time for the fashion industry to carry the open-sourced learnings from M0.0NSHOT forward.” The shoe’s official reveal will be in June 2023 at Copenhagen’s Global Fashion Summit.

Lululemon is running for mental health

Photography courtesy of Lululemon

To many, running is a form of therapy, which is why Lululemon has tapped L.A.-based lifestyle brand Madhappy to co-create a run collection in support of mental health. Launching on April 4, the limited-edition assortment of technical products features a sunset-inspired palette and tie-dye prints, driving home the idea that there’s joy in a balanced lifestyle. What’s more, both brands will be making a collective donation of $40,000 USD in support of the JED Foundation, a nonprofit that protects emotional health and prevents suicide for teens and young adults across America.

Make way for an On x Ssense exclusive

Photography courtesy of On x Ssense

An Ssense exclusive is a pretty big deal, and Swiss sportswear brand On is the latest to receive this treatment. Its high performance Cloudflash running shoe has been refreshed through the style-centric lens of Ssense, and features a new colourway of earthy brown with neon lime accents. Consider the shoe both practical and cool.

Own the moment with Bulgari’s new Octo Roma releases

Photography courtesy of Bulgari

The refreshed Octo Roma collection is a flawless example of modern-day haute horlogerie. Best characterized by its versatility, sophistication and elegance, these new Bulgari timepieces embody a contemporary style while still staying true to the technical precision of Swiss watchmaking. Plus, they’re distinct enough to stand out amongst the masses: the octagon-shaped case — and name — is a nod to the city of Rome, where the high jewellery brand was founded.

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The Ultimate Guide to Canada’s Best Vintage Stores https://fashionmagazine.com/style/shop-canada-style/vintage-stores-thrift-canada/ Wed, 29 Mar 2023 17:01:34 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467933 Isabel B. Slone scoured the country to bring you some of the most under-the-radar vintage and second-hand stores in Canada and one thing’s for sure: they’ll all give you the thrill of the find. From Halifax to Vancouver and everywhere in between, here are the best places to find pre-loved pieces. RELATED: Thrifting Tips for […]

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Isabel B. Slone scoured the country to bring you some of the most under-the-radar vintage and second-hand stores in Canada and one thing’s for sure: they’ll all give you the thrill of the find. From Halifax to Vancouver and everywhere in between, here are the best places to find pre-loved pieces.

RELATED: Thrifting Tips for Spotting Rare Gems Amid the Duds

Common Sort

 

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LOCATION: Toronto
SPECIALTY: Trendy fast-fashion and designer-label gems
WHY WE LOVE IT: Like most consignment stores, Common Sort can be a grab bag when it comes to style, catering to both Gen Z Y2K enthusiasts and designer snobs alike. Despite the disparate racks, what everything has in common is an affordable price tag; high-quality vintage pieces can be had for less than $30, and designer items rarely go for more than $100. With three different locations across Toronto — each catering to its unique neighbourhood locale — Common Sort will fulfill any bargain hunter’s bloodhound-like nose for a deal.

Stella Luna

LOCATION: Toronto
SPECIALTY: Pristine rare 1960s vintage
WHY WE LOVE IT: Open only two days a week, Stella Luna is perhaps Toronto’s best-kept vintage secret. Owner Crispian Underwood has been hawking Oleg Cassini blouses and sleek alligator pumps to discerning Torontonians since the mid-’90s from her west-Parkdale storefront with its celestial motifs painted on dusty-orange walls. Prices are scandalously affordable; a stunning 1960s beaded cardigan clocks in at only $30. Ask nicely and Underwood may let you into her treasure trove of a basement for a peek.

Mintage Mall

 

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LOCATION: Vancouver
SPECIALTY: Novelty graphic tees and perfectly-worn-in denim
WHY WE LOVE IT: As the name suggests, Mintage Mall is a mall full of vintage. Located in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood, it houses wares from some of the city’s most reputable vintage sellers under a single roof. You’ll find Billy Joel concert tees among kitschy salt and pepper shakers, sports jerseys, wedding dresses and much more spread out over several floors. With its penchant for ironic novelty items, it caters to a younger audience, but root around for an afternoon and you may leave with something wholly unexpected. Also, keep an eye out for the $20-or-less sales!

Seconde Vintage

 

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LOCATION: Montreal
SPECIALTY: Designer clothes in bold, brazen silhouettes
WHY WE LOVE IT: Opened in 2021, Seconde Vintage is a newcomer to Montreal’s brimming second-hand-store scene. Its well-curated selection of high-end vintage makes it the perfect place for anyone who wants to find pristine Prada pumps without looking too hard. The inside is jam-packed with unexpected and quirky pieces from Thierry Mugler, Chanel, Issey Miyake and The Row that you might not find anywhere else. Some of the outré styles on offer are not for the faint of heart, but a statement piece or two will elevate your wardrobe to the next level.

Collective Will

LOCATION: Vancouver
SPECIALTY: A covetable designer handbag selection
WHY WE LOVE IT: Shopping at Collective Will is like going to a clothing swap with your most stylish friends. The sunny, light-filled boutique in Vancouver’s historic Gastown district boasts the city’s most impressive selection of vintage and second-hand designer goods, including an abundance of Prada, Furla and Gucci bags. Most of the offerings are fairly pricey, but the store has frequent markdowns to clear out space, so with enough patience, you can snag a great deal on something you love. Perhaps the best news of all? They ship online orders worldwide.

Boretski Gallery

 

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LOCATION: Belleville, Ont.
SPECIALTY: Antique accessories and jazzy formalwear
WHY WE LOVE IT: Owner Marina Boretski’s crowded downtown-Belleville shop is ripe with treasures, and she often lends out her unique wares to wardrobe and prop stylists for use on Netflix shows. Dazzling 1920s evening gowns, lace bonnets from the Victorian era and 1950s cotton swimsuits are all items you might stumble upon while combing the racks. Boretski, whose boutique has been open since 2003, has an encyclopedic knowledge of her stock and can help locate pieces you might have missed on your first pass through the store.

Swish Vintage

 

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LOCATION: Edmonton
SPECIALTY: Flirty, femme vintage dresses
WHY WE LOVE IT: In a city not typically known for its stylistic prowess, Swish Vintage is a rare gem. Owner Angela Larson is a self-described “treasure hunter, storyteller and stylist” who has been uniting special items with their rightful owners for 20 years. (The name comes from Larson’s grandmother, a fashionista who used to describe stylish people as “so swish.”) The store specializes in the feminine and eclectic: Jackie O. dresses from the 1960s hang on racks next to floral cotton dresses from the 1980s. Some finds — like a custom-made leopard-print three-piece skirt suit from the 1960s ($395) — must be seen to be believed.

La Petite Boutique/The Little Shop

LOCATION: Montreal
SPECIALTY: Antique textiles and costume-y clothes
WHY WE LOVE IT: Located outside of Montreal’s crowded vintage scene, La Petite Boutique may be the most beloved friperie (French for “thrift store”) of them all. Spanning three floors, the crowded shop boasts an eclectic array of handmade quilts stacked all the way up to the ceilings and a hodgepodge of hats. Nearly everyone who goes in — from puff-sleeved-prairie-dress lovers to ironic e-girls — will find something to satisfy their sensibilities. And lucky shoppers may end up being treated to a tray of tea and cookies in the afternoon by store owner Jill Moroz.

Elsie’s Used Clothing

 

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LOCATION: Halifax
SPECIALTY: Quirky high-end jumble sale
WHY WE LOVE IT: With its canary-yellow exterior and racks of clothing enticing customers to come inside, Elsie’s Used Clothing is a mainstay on Halifax’s Queen Street. The interior looks like the dressing room of a quirky aunt, with walls covered in vintage tapestries, thrift store framed photos and hangers displaying some of the frothier wares. You’ll find an assortment of luxury goods, like a 1980s Balenciaga purse ($350) and a vintage fur-collar coat ($280), at standard (read “not cheap”) vintage prices. Head there soon because the building is slated for demolition sometime in 2024.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Elevate Your Wardrobe With These Upcycled Pieces https://fashionmagazine.com/style/shopping/upcycling-fashion/ Tue, 28 Mar 2023 14:23:08 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467831 Eco-minded fashion is more modern than ever, thanks to designers who are acing the upcycling game. With options like 1/Off, which transforms top-tier vintage into contemporary creations, and Collina Strada, where dead stock fabrics meet quirky designs, there’s no need to sacrifice style when opting for a positive environmental impact. Plus, there’s something for everyone, […]

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Eco-minded fashion is more modern than ever, thanks to designers who are acing the upcycling game. With options like 1/Off, which transforms top-tier vintage into contemporary creations, and Collina Strada, where dead stock fabrics meet quirky designs, there’s no need to sacrifice style when opting for a positive environmental impact. Plus, there’s something for everyone, including chain link belts for the edgy, pearl drop earrings for the dainty, lightweight runners for the athletic, and patchwork skirts for the eclectic.

RELATED: Introducing Canada’s Most Stylish Thrifter, Aldeneil Española

Still don’t believe us? Below we’ve rounded up 11 sustainable upcycled pieces that prove our point.

A version of this article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Jeremy Scott Designs Couture for Hyundai + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/jeremy-scott-hyundai/ Fri, 24 Mar 2023 19:33:52 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467763 Jeremy Scott upcycles car parts for a Hyundai-branded couture collection Former Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott is known for his cheeky, irreverent style, so it’s no surprise that his latest gig designing a couture collection using upcycled car waste is a bit “outside the box.” Shown at Seoul Fashion Week on March 22 as part […]

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Jeremy Scott upcycles car parts for a Hyundai-branded couture collection
Jeremy Scott designing for Hyundai Re: Style initiative
Photography courtesy of Hyundai

Former Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott is known for his cheeky, irreverent style, so it’s no surprise that his latest gig designing a couture collection using upcycled car waste is a bit “outside the box.” Shown at Seoul Fashion Week on March 22 as part of Hyundai Motor Company’s Re: Style initiative, the project addresses the environmental impact of both the fashion and automotive industries and proves that treasure can be created from trash. The designs effortlessly transformed windshield wipers, wheels, seat belts, tail lights and wires into something shockingly beautiful.

Fashion Art Toronto returns with its biggest event

Fashion Art Toronto is back for its Spring 2023 showcase. From April 27 to April 30, 50 Canadian designers (including L’Uomo Strano, Lesley Hampton and Narces) will present their creativity in a variety of runway shows and presentations. Taking place at Black Creek Assembly, the venue will also feature a fashion playground filled with interactive areas for guests to enjoy. Get your tickets now.

Dior goes for gold in its latest capsule collection

Photography courtesy of Dior

Everything Maria Grazia Chiuri touches turns to gold — figuratively and (sometimes) literally. Just look at her latest reinterpretation of the Dior Or capsule, a selection of ready-to-wear clothing and accessories that have been laced with a gilded touch. You’ll find subtle yet luminous gold tones featured on items like the iconic Lady Dior bag, the Bar Jacket and the Walk’n’Dior sneakers. And since gold has been a key pillar in the brand’s identity since the late Christian Dior was designing, it’s the perfect marriage of old and new.

Van Cleef & Arpels paints a picture of spring

Photography courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

Many think of spring as a time of new beginnings. Van Cleef & Arpels agrees, adding four new pieces to its Lucky Spring collection. An expression of luck and joy, ladybugs and dainty floral motifs adorn the hardware of two necklaces, a ring and a bracelet. Drenched in a palette of rose gold, white mother of pearl, onyx and carnelian, you can expect this jewellery collection to shimmer as elegantly as a dewy spring garden.

Veronica Beard arrives on Canadian soil

Photography courtesy of Veronica Beard

Chic and contemporary ready-to-wear label Veronica Beard has touched down in Canada for the very first time. Founded by sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard (no, you’re not seeing double) in 2010, the modern, feminine label fits right in within Toronto’s Yorkville village where the storefront is open and ready for perusing. “Toronto happens to be one of our favourite cities, with an energy unlike any other,” shares Miele Beard in a press release. “We wanted VB Toronto to capture the distinct spirit of Veronica Beard as well the spirit of Toronto — warm, lived-in and inviting.”

Ashlee Simpson-Ross joins Ashley Freeborn in designing a new Smash + Tess collection

Photography courtesy of Smash + Tess

Now, if you think you’re seeing double this time, rest assured you are not. Ashlee Simpson-Ross has collaborated with Smash + Tess founder Ashley Freeborn on a retro-inspired collection of rompers, dusters and dresses for men, women and children. Canadian-made and slow-fashion focused, these size-inclusive pieces are fit for the whole fam.

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Jewellers Are Using Kintsugi To Upcycle Broken Gems https://fashionmagazine.com/style/kintsugi-jewellery/ Fri, 24 Mar 2023 18:03:27 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467795 I’ve lost the ability to throw anything away. It’s not because I’m a hoarder. It’s because I can no longer toss out broken bowls and unravelling sweaters with the prelapsarian abandon of yore. So, down into the basement they go until I figure out how to repair them. RELATED: 8 Things To Know Before Buying […]

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I’ve lost the ability to throw anything away. It’s not because I’m a hoarder. It’s because I can no longer toss out broken bowls and unravelling sweaters with the prelapsarian abandon of yore. So, down into the basement they go until I figure out how to repair them.

RELATED: 8 Things To Know Before Buying a Watch

While in this salvaging frame of mind, I noticed a rivulet of gold on an old brown espresso cup after dinner at a friend’s place. The cup looked like it had had a mini volcanic eruption. Gleaming 24-karat “magma” slithered down from the rim in a meandering diagonal. My friend, a ceramic artist, said: “It’s bootleg kintsugi. The cup was cracked so I just mixed some gold powder with epoxy and glued it back together.” Had any masters of the 15th-century Japanese art form been at the table, they would have spit out their tea. But to the rest of us, who didn’t know any better, gold glue made for a nifty repair job.

Oak wood and 18 karat gold necklace, $7,000, Édéenne

“Kintsugi” means “to join with gold.” As the legend goes, a shogun named Ashikaga Yoshimasa’s favourite celadon-glazed bowl was broken so he sent it to China to be repaired. What returned was a Frankenstein-style mend job held together with metal staples. Yoshimasa ordered his own people to come up with a better patching technique.

Thus was born kintsugi — a slow-as-molasses fix that uses gold-dusted urushi lacquer to glue broken pieces of pottery together. The lacquer is made from the sap of the Toxicodendron vernicifluum tree, a member of the sumac family, which grows in Japan, China and Korea. Urushi trees are finicky and can only be harvested when they are between 10 and 12 years old. Each tree produces roughly a single cup of pale urushi sap, and once that sap has been extracted, the tree is cut down. So, urushi is like the blood of trees. Obtaining it requires a botanical sacrifice, true, but one that is not irrevocable. Nature kicks in, the slain tree regenerates shoots from its stump and the slow cycle begins all over again the following spring.

Opal and 18 karat gold plated ring, $335, Moondrop Creations

Immense work goes into tapping urushi trees and processing the sap, which is done by hand. The sap will have different qualities depending on which season it’s collected in: Spring sap contains more water, while summer sap has a higher concentration of urushiol, the chemical compound that gives urushi lacquer its indestructible hard glossiness. The sap is poured into wooden vats and placed under a heat source or outside on hot days. Workers stir it continuously by hand.

Kintsugi has traditionally been used to mend pottery, but jewellers have borrowed the technique to dramatically upcycle flawed and fractured gems. The well-trained lacquer master carefully cleans each fragment of stone. Deftly, they coat the surfaces of the fissure, join the pieces together and leave the glued-together gem to set, which requires a high humidity of up to 80 per cent and a temperature of 24°C. It takes the lacquer several weeks to form a matrix of molecules over the surface, bonding the gem pieces together for what will now be thousands of years. The urushi glue is then sanded down, and gold is dusted over the lacquered cracks.

Mother-of-pearl, diamond and 18 karat gold charm, price upon request, Milamore

Besides the immeasurable value of time and skill poured into patiently reconstructing a broken object, it is the materials — the gold, of course, but also the lacquer — that make the repair as precious, if not more so, as the thing being repaired. Perhaps this is what Japanese jeweller Milamore is hinting at in its kintsugi-inspired (but not kintsugi-repaired) floating pavé diamond gold rings and necklaces.

Italian jewellery house Pomellato has introduced a kintsugi collection consisting of reclaimed broken gemstones. Tokyo artist Maya Higuchi is collaborating with Pomellato to create rings, pendant necklaces and earrings from damaged jet and volcanic opals called kogolong. Her gold-slashed repair work gives the pieces their contemporary abstract chocolate-box aesthetic. The kintsugi also makes each piece absolutely one of a kind.

Diamond slice and 22 karat gold pendant on an 18 karat gold chain, $6,120, Jamie Joseph

Many fine-jewellery clients who buy “nothing but the best” won’t understand plunking down a few thousand dollars for a glued-together ring. But kintsugi philosophy is seeping into a West that is trying to be more sustainable and less blinkered about perfection. More than just a way to fix broken things, kintsugi is a philosophy about broken things — that we don’t discard them, that we fix them and that we fix them by elevating their brokenness, not concealing it. People are taking kintsugi to heart and baring the unique chips and cracks of their life experience to others. And in high jewellery, where poorly placed flaws reduce gemstones to a sliver of their worth, kintsugi is turning trash into shimmering treasures.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Is the Golden Era of Vintage Shopping Long Gone? https://fashionmagazine.com/style/thrifting-tips-opinion/ Thu, 23 Mar 2023 21:05:53 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467716 I fell out of love with thrifting in the same way that going bankrupt was described in Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises: slowly at first, then all at once. In high school, I spent hours sifting through racks of old garments in the musty volunteer-run second-hand store in my hometown of Belleville, Ont. Tucked […]

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I fell out of love with thrifting in the same way that going bankrupt was described in Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises: slowly at first, then all at once. In high school, I spent hours sifting through racks of old garments in the musty volunteer-run second-hand store in my hometown of Belleville, Ont. Tucked among the faded scrubs and cast-off Tim Hortons uniforms were gems like 1980s sequined mohair sweaters, creased leather Salvatore Ferragamo pumps and hand-knit Irish-wool cardigans with wooden buttons — each for less than $5.

RELATED: Introducing Canada’s Most Stylish Thrifter, Aldeneil Española

For me, the bounty represented not just an accession of style but an escape from the confines of social class. When I was growing up, my mom sewed most of my wardrobe herself, which at the time marked me as someone unable to afford brand-name labels. But at the thrift store, I could find Lacoste sweaters and vintage Armani suits for less than a pair of jeans at the Gap. All of a sudden, I was dressing better than my classmates. The entire world opened up when I no longer had to choose between quantity and quality. Over countless hours — no doubt at least the 10,000 that Malcolm Gladwell says are required to achieve true expertise — I developed a truffle-pig-like ability to spot treasures, like made-in-England vintage Dr. Martens and Brooks Brothers button-downs. Apparently, all it takes to look expensive is to have a good eye.

While I still love thrifting in theory, in practice, the fluorescent overhead lighting has begun to feel less like a symbol of promise and more like a harbinger of doom. Nowadays, the overwhelming thought I get upon entering a thrift store is “How can I get out of here as soon as possible?” I used to be able to walk into a second-hand shop and stumble across a pair of knee-high made-in-Italy leather combat boots that fit perfectly for $20. Now, all I can find are pilling mall-brand knits and flammable halter tops from Fashion Nova or Shein that fall apart after three wears. After a few minutes of half-heartedly rifling through the crammed racks, I head to the housewares section, do a quick scan for Le Creuset and kitschy figurines and then leave.

This precipitous drop in inventory quality isn’t because more people have caught on to thrifting — though according to a ThredUp study, the second-hand market is projected to experience more growth than any other clothing sector (including fast fashion) between now and 2031 — it’s because clothing brands have engaged in a race to the bottom with regard to garment construction in order to turn a profit. Clothing is one of the rare consumer categories that has actually decreased in price over the past 30 years, even with inflation. When a T-shirt costs less than a carton of eggs, you know there’s a problem. Thrift stores are not just places where unwanted garments move on to their next stage of life; they’re a graveyard where inferior clothing goes to die.

The reality is that thrifting has become such a poignant reminder of the dilemma of consumerism that I would rather avoid it altogether. Instead, I find joy in saving up to thoughtfully acquire new pieces from ethical independent designers.

That said, it isn’t impossible to find good stuff while thrifting; it’s just become much more difficult. If you know what you’re looking for, you’ll still be able to walk away with a few rare gems. Here’s how to spot first-rate finery amid a sea of trash.

Avoid synthetics

Always keep your eyes peeled for items made from natural fibres like wool, cotton, silk and linen. Organic materials are often more breathable than synthetic ones, and they typically have a smaller eco footprint than materials made from petroleum by-products.

Check fabric quality

Designers refer to “the hand” to describe the sensation of a fabric against your skin. For example, how does it feel in your hand? Is the material silky and soft or slippery and staticky? The way a garment feels helps determine how often you will wear it, so be sure you like the fabric just as much as — or even more than — the style before putting it in your cart.

Learn to read labels

A clothing label provides almost as much information as a book — if you know how to read it. It can tell you the age of something, whether it’s high- or low-end and where it was made — all important clues for determining a garment’s quality. Clothing made before 1990 and items made in Italy, England, the United States and Canada tend to be valued for their superior quality (bonus points if the piece is union-made). Notice a designer label? Congratulations! You’ve hit the jackpot.

Assess the workmanship

Examine the garment to see if there are any loose threads; if so, pull them to make sure the piece doesn’t fall apart. Look at the stitching. Is it perfectly straight or wonky? If there’s a pattern, does it line up at the seams? Cheaper-quality garments are usually held together by looping serged hems instead of stitched seams.

Practise patience

Thrifting isn’t like heading to the mall and picking a shirt out of a lineup of acceptable options. Instead, try to have an open mind and allow yourself to be surprised. Keep an idea in your head of what you’re looking for, but don’t get discouraged if you don’t find it immediately. Sometimes it takes years of searching before the Thrift Store Gods deliver on their promise.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Colourful Hair Is the Ultimate Form of Self-Expression for This Astrologer https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty-grooming/texture-talk/colourful-hair-extensions/ Thu, 23 Mar 2023 13:57:18 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467645 This is Texture Talk, our long-running column that deep dives into the dynamic world of curly hair, from crowns of curls that are free flowing to strands that are tucked away in a protective style. I’ve always had a fixation on and a love for hair. I can even remember being four years old and […]

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This is Texture Talk, our long-running column that deep dives into the dynamic world of curly hair, from crowns of curls that are free flowing to strands that are tucked away in a protective style.

I’ve always had a fixation on and a love for hair. I can even remember being four years old and drawing stick figures with super-long hair. My parents were always very into beauty and fashion, so I think they were a big influence when it came to me being expressive with my looks. My sister was also a huge contributing factor, especially when it came to my colourful aesthetic. She used to have locs, and I would watch her colour them all sorts of hues. I always thought that that was cool, and as I got older, I wanted to be able to do something similar but in my own unique way.

RELATED: Texture Talk: How to Repair Heat and Colour Damage

My colour choices are very reflective of where I am in my life. Spiritually speaking, colours have their own energies and vibrations. For example, my hair was pink last summer — a time when I needed to embrace more self-love. (Pink is associated with love, inner peace, balance and harmony.) I’ve also rocked brown to be more grounded and blue for more calming and healing energy. As I go through transition periods and phases in life, my hair colours mirror them.

 

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When it comes to my curls, I’m a volume girl; I like to add extensions to my natural hair to accentuate it but mostly to achieve my colours — I’m terrified to dye my own hair, especially any bright shade. Extensions are fun, versatile and safer for the health and longevity of my hair. I love wigs for these same reasons. I’ve learned to make braided wigs — plaiting my own hair isn’t always the most convenient thing for me because I like to switch up my style a lot — and I’m in the process of learning to make lace-front wigs.

With my hair-care routine, I try to be mindful of not over-consuming products; I try to stick to a plan — like deep conditioning once a month and investing in good hydrating oils — and not go overboard with formulas. And I’ll reuse wigs and certain types of extensions until I basically can’t anymore. I think that it’s important to buy quality products that will last, as opposed to constantly purchasing new ones.

A hair-care routine can be such a spiritual thing, too. Like, at night, I wear a really big bonnet — I often laugh at myself when I have it on because it kind of looks like the mushroom hat from Mario — to preserve my curls, but I’ve also noticed that when my hair is covered, I feel protected in a way. I think that comes from my experiences: Rocking really big curls out in public, I’ve had random people touch my hair without asking and ask me questions like “How do you sleep?” or “Is your hair heavy?” For the most part, I understand that those types of encounters are coming from an innocent place, but sometimes, unfortunately, there are situations that feel like microaggressions.

When I was younger, I was very insecure about my looks — I literally thought I was ugly. But once I entered my 20s and did a lot of self-reflecting, healing and growth work, I felt a shift — a transformative perception of myself. It’s taken a while, but I’ve learned to really appreciate my style and my beauty, even if I do have days where I’m like, “Am I too much for people? Too expressive, too flamboyant?” I have to remind myself sometimes that the right people will appreciate me for who I am. I’ve learned to accept myself, and I know that I wouldn’t want to be any other way.

 

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Love to experiment with wigs or extensions? Check out 5 brands bettering the hair-extension game:

The wig and hair-extension market is a multi-billion-dollar global industry. But many are made with landfill-bound strands of plastic (which often have an alkaline coating that can cause skin irritation), while various human-hair versions raise ethical issues surrounding sourcing. Here, discover brands bettering the game with their transparency and practices, like using premium Remy hair (strands cut or shaved straight from willing donors who are compensated in return, plus all the protective hair cuticles are preserved for sleekness and shine) and recyclable alternatives.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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This Jean Paul Gaultier Devotee’s Collection Is About More Than Clothes https://fashionmagazine.com/style/lordwarg-jean-paul-gaultier-steve-karas/ Wed, 22 Mar 2023 15:47:59 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467582 In the minutes it takes me to ring the buzzer of Steve Karas’s New York City apartment and walk up a few flights of stairs, he purchased a Jean Paul Gaultier dress — specifically, a cyber-dot number from the ’90s that recently re-entered It status thanks to Kim Kardashian and Cardi B. “The print has […]

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In the minutes it takes me to ring the buzzer of Steve Karas’s New York City apartment and walk up a few flights of stairs, he purchased a Jean Paul Gaultier dress — specifically, a cyber-dot number from the ’90s that recently re-entered It status thanks to Kim Kardashian and Cardi B. “The print has gotten so hard to find that if I come across it, I have to buy it,” the hairdresser turned stylist reveals. “And once you have one, of course, you need two and then all the different colours.”

RELATED: Sylvia Mantella’s Gucci-Filled Closet is an Ode to Alessandro Michele

This thinking explains how Karas (known on social media as @lordwarg) has compiled a collection of over 500 Jean Paul Gaultier pieces, all of which line the walls of his small Chelsea living room. “I like to see everything,” he smiles, sitting cross-legged on the floor, looking up at his stockpile. “I promised myself I would never get a storage unit because then my collection would truly be endless.” Yet already, you can’t open a drawer, turn a knob or lean on a wall without hitting various Gaultier garbs. The space is overflowing with enthusiasm and dedication to the French designer, and Karas and his husband have been reduced to working, living and sleeping in one room. (Don’t worry! They’re in the process of moving to a bigger space.) But Karas wouldn’t have it any other way.

 

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His experience growing up in Cannes, France, was more “grungy motels, food banks and homelessness” than international film festivals. He began shopping at vintage stores for practical purposes (read “cheaper clothes”), not passion. Still, even from a young age, he’s always had a particular aesthetic, which his mother encouraged. “I once got sent home from school because I had spikes on my shoes,” he laughs.

It was actually his mom who introduced him to Gaultier when he was around 10 years old. The local French news would often report on the designer’s collections, and she would call Karas down to watch. After his years of being violently bullied for “looking effeminate” and “dressing flamboyantly,” watching Gaultier’s creations walk down the runway changed his life. “There was not a lot of gay representation back then, so to see him — a proud gay man — being celebrated was very powerful,” Karas says, getting emotional. “He was the first person who showed me I could wear whatever I wanted and still be accepted. So my collection is very much a labour of love.”

 

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While Karas initially found a few $1 Gaultier T-shirts and other basics in thrift stores and on eBay, it wasn’t until he moved to New York in 2010 — and gained some financial security — that his hobby became his way of life. He admits that he sometimes searches through his “catalogue of online bookmarks” from morning until late at night for rare Gaultier finds. “My collection is made of patience and then some money,” he shares, revealing that he found most of the wares in his wardrobe for about $200 each. “I don’t drink. I don’t do drugs. I take the subway. Gaultier is what I spend my money on.” As such, Karas considers himself an archivist and one day hopes to host an exhibition at The Met with all of his finds, most of which hail from the ’90s, his favourite Gaultier decade.

Despite his devotion to vintage, Karas doesn’t think of himself as an environmentalist. “My clothes come wrapped in plastic,” he says. “I don’t know how they were produced. And by posting on social media, I make people want to buy more clothes. I don’t feel comfortable with that.” But his gaggle of Gaultier does deliver endless joy. “I think because I was broke when I was younger, I’ve always tried to surround myself with stuff,” he shares. But upon reflection, he adds: “It’s just amazing to think about the hundreds and hundreds of people who worked on these clothes and that the items are still in use today. I’m just so proud to make them live again.”

Click through the gallery below for a glimpse of Karas’s Jean Paul Gaultier collection.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Introducing Canada’s Most Stylish Thrifter, Aldeneil Española https://fashionmagazine.com/style/most-stylish-thrifter-canada-aldeneil-espanola/ Mon, 20 Mar 2023 17:35:23 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467439 When FASHION embarked on a search for Canada’s Most Stylish Thrifter, we had no idea of what might unfold. Would any “serious fashion people” apply? Would all the submissions come from big cities? And from influencers looking to boost their followers? We knew what we wanted: a true thrifting devotee. Not someone who is trying […]

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When FASHION embarked on a search for Canada’s Most Stylish Thrifter, we had no idea of what might unfold. Would any “serious fashion people” apply? Would all the submissions come from big cities? And from influencers looking to boost their followers? We knew what we wanted: a true thrifting devotee. Not someone who is trying to dress designer on the cheap. Not a second-hand-shop clerk who has dibs on all the best goods. We wanted a person who enjoys the hunting process, who is discerning when it comes to quality and who doesn’t care what name is on the label. We were also looking for creativity: someone who would surprise us with how they put their finds together. And definitely someone who loves thrifting so much that they would do it even if they had the disposable income to shop entirely new.

RELATED: Stylist Cary Tauben’s Vintage Track Suit Collection Will Make Your Jaw Drop

Española is wearing a blazer and jeans from Value Village and a shirt and scarf from Village Green MCC Thrift, where he also found the cat bag; the earrings are by Adeline Scott. Photography by Molly Schikosky

We found all of that and more in Aldeneil Española, a 24-year-old university student in Saskatoon. His submission — which included a full-on fashion shoot inspired by Frida Kahlo, among others — put him at the top of a very impressive list of entrants from across the country. But what set Española apart was his artistic eye and deep connection to what he wears.

“Clothes are so much more than just fabric covering the body,” Española wrote in his application. “I am a queer POC artist who uses clothing to tell stories. Clothing is one of the quickest ways to communicate who you are without uttering a single word. I hope to show the younger generations behind me that it’s important to be visible and that clothing can be an extension of your personality and being.”

Española in a blazer, jeans and bag from Value Village, a printed shirt from eBay and a white shirt by an artisan in the Philippines; the Calvin Klein boots were purchased on Grailed. Photography by Molly Schikosky

When I meet Española on Zoom, he is dressed in a vibrant floral shirt from Value Village that seems better suited to a beach in Maui than his small apartment in sub-zero Saskatoon. His cheeks are glowing thanks to a combo of Fenty Beauty and E.L.F. blushes and Fenty Beauty Diamond Bomb highlighter. He describes how he began thrifting menswear and then shifted to the women’s aisles. “My earliest women’s find was a fur coat with the label, the year and who the coat was made for,” he says. “I felt like I had a connection to the person who wore it and I was carrying on their legacy. That was a big shift in my mind.” Española also began to see the value in vintage clothing, which was made to last, as opposed to the fast fashion that fills so many thrift-store racks. “I love the feel of vintage leather,” he says. Among his treasures is an armadillo bag, complete with head and feet, that he carries like a football because of its shape: “I have never seen anything like this, and it probably cost way more than what I had to spend for it.” The first designer item he thrifted was a pair of Calvin Klein boots from the Raf Simons era that he wouldn’t have been able to afford otherwise.

These Calvin Klein boots from the Raf Simons era were Española’s first luxury score. Photography by Molly Schikosky

As Española shares his story, it becomes clear that at one time he dressed for necessity, not personal expression. Born in the Philippines, he was 12 when he landed with his family in the tiny town of Gravelbourg, Sask. “It was the middle of nowhere and we didn’t have a lot coming into Canada,” he recalls. “We arrived in March, so it was still pretty cold. The Filipinos in that community gathered a lot of second-hand clothes, coats and stuff — things we didn’t need when we were in the Philippines because it’s always hot.”

There was little “fashion” in Gravelbourg, population 986, or among Española’s very conservative churchgoing family. “I definitely just dressed to fit in,” he says. But that first experience of wearing only second-hand clothing had a profound impact. “It opened my eyes to the possibility that it’s literally fine for me not to have anything new,” he shares. When Española moved to Saskatoon at age 19, he continued to thrift but began to notice a difference in how people dressed. Social media expanded his world even further, and that, combined with the freedom to break away from his parents’ constraints, ignited a passion for experimentation. Around the same time, Española saw a documentary on Alexander McQueen that confirmed what he had already been sensing. “McQueen was the first person who showed me that clothing can be an art form and a visual language,” he says. “And that really inspired me to explore this part of myself.”

This Ajisai kimono from Hazlewood is paired with finds from Village Green MCC Thrift, Value Village and eBay. Photography by Molly Schikosky

It was also the beginning of his path to self-confidence. “Fashion was the first place I saw evidence that I was good at something,” he says. “And then I thought I could apply that same principle to other forms of art.” Española is now in his second year of a fine arts degree, and he often shares his expressive drawings on Instagram and TikTok, interspersing them with the fashion shoots he collaborates on with other Saskatoon creatives. He is also part of a stylish small group counted on to bring energy to brand events and parties. “This helped me have endless belief in myself,” he declares. “I know that no matter what I want to do, I will always be there to catch myself and bring myself back up.”

Española would love to find a way to combine his passions by creating wearable art and is experimenting with prints, dead stock and painting on blazers. Turning found fashion into art is just one of the reasons he believes thrifting will always have a place in his life. The other is his unapologetically exuberant style. “Clothing costs a lot of money, and thrifting is a really good way for me to be able to create extravagant maximalist looks without going broke.”

Española bought this armadillo bag from a local vintage collector he found on Facebook Marketplace. Photography by Molly Schikosky

Aldeneil Española shares his top thrifting tips:

1. “I don’t shop online a lot unless I’m looking for a specific piece. Clothing acts differently on different bodies. You need to be able to try it on to see if it lies properly, if it moves the way you want it to move.”

2. “Feel the fabric with your hands, and then try the item on. The more senses you bring to clothes, the more you’ll appreciate and understand them.”

3. “I wear basics that cling to my skin so it’s easier to try clothes on overtop. It also feels better to wear something underneath as you don’t know where the clothes have been.”

4. “Travel light. I sometimes bring my own grocery bags and maybe a handbag. Other than that, I rarely carry anything.”

5. “I’m not very fun to go shopping with. I’m very specific, and I need to think. I can’t be having a conversation with someone. So I like to do it alone.”

6. “I prefer it when there are less people in the store, so I go in the evening. It’s usually the only thing on my agenda as I like to take my time to look through the whole store. No time constraints makes the experience more enjoyable.”

7. “Staff in smaller stores are more likely to strike up a conversation. This way, I’ve found pieces that are not yet on the floor. Even though a store is filled, they likely have more stock in the back.”

8. “It’s powerful if you can do alterations. That’s how I got into sewing. I hem pants and take in shirts, and I’ve reconstructed thrifted pieces for other people, usually to make them fit.”

Photography by MOLLY SCHIKOSKY. Makeup by KACIE HANCHEROW. Photo assistants: BERIT JOHNSON. 

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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Content Creator Gabe Adams-Wheatley On Her Makeup Journey https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty-grooming/gabe-adams-wheatley/ Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:29:43 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=467401 “Journey” gets used a lot these days as a way of describing life’s unfolding, but for social media sensation Gabe Adams-Wheatley, it’s a deeply accurate descriptor in so many ways. RELATED: Canadian Race-Car Driver Samantha Tan Shares Her Beauty Must-Haves The Brazilian-born influencer has Hanhart syndrome, a condition that can lead to missing limbs at […]

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“Journey” gets used a lot these days as a way of describing life’s unfolding, but for social media sensation Gabe Adams-Wheatley, it’s a deeply accurate descriptor in so many ways.

RELATED: Canadian Race-Car Driver Samantha Tan Shares Her Beauty Must-Haves

The Brazilian-born influencer has Hanhart syndrome, a condition that can lead to missing limbs at birth; her birth mother abandoned her, and her birth father “had already left her for another family.” Plans were put in place to send Adams-Wheatley to America for medical treatment, but what actually came next was an adoption by a family in Utah. And she hasn’t stopped since, pushing herself to evolve from teenage dance enthusiast to motivational speaker and, more recently, makeup-tutorial maven.

@gabeadams

This song remix is giving, what needs to be given!🧚🏽‍♂️✨ ffypvviralttrendingmmakeupmmakeuptutorialmmakeupartistgglamm#megantrainor

♬ Made You Look (feat. Kim Petras) – Meghan Trainor

“I first got into makeup because I used to be a dancer in high school,” says the Salt Lake City-based entrepreneur, who only recently came out as trans. “I remember coming home one day and telling my parents I needed to get some makeup. I come from a very conservative religious background, and the reaction was ‘Men don’t wear makeup.’ I explained that every TV actor and news anchor wears it. So, they let me buy some products and said, ‘You can only wear them when you’re performing.’”

But Adams-Wheatley found herself sneakily putting it on before she’d leave for school. “I didn’t know what I was doing,” she admits of her initial attempts to apply blush, bronzer and beyond. It was one of her brothers (Adams-Wheatley is one of 14 kids and the only adoptee) who motivated her to get more serious about the pursuit. “That jump-started my interest in wanting to get better,” she says. “I watched a bunch of YouTubers and saw how they were doing their makeup. Then I modified it in a way that I was able to do myself.”

Photography courtesy of Gabe Adams-Wheatley

Adams-Wheatley uses a tool called a dressing stick for wardrobe changes, which vary from sequined frocks to sweater vests. But she doesn’t typically use adaptive makeup tools during her videos, since not everyone with a disability would find them of use. “Each person’s disability and needs are different,” she says.

Yet that doesn’t mean she hasn’t let viewers in on her technique. Folks who follow Adams-Wheatley’s tutorials, which range from “Let’s Do a Euphoria Makeup Look” to special-occasion transformations, are familiar with how she rests various products and tools on a tabletop to help her apply them. Her husband, Adam, was crucial in helping her finesse her routine.

“When I first started doing my makeup, I would do it while lying on the floor,” recalls Adams-Wheatley. “I’d have a towel placed under me, so I wouldn’t get product on the carpet or on the hardwood floors, and I’d have a mirror right in front of me. For my 22nd birthday, my husband surprised me by buying an Ikea desk and chopping its legs down to my height. He then bought me a ring light and a few products. That’s when TikTok really started happening for me.”

 

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A post shared by Gabe Adams-Wheatley (@no_limbs_)


Adams-Wheatley has since found herself sitting front row at New York Fashion Week, walking the red carpet at Loveloud Festival, visiting the White House last year for a Pride celebration and working on major campaigns. “A year ago, you wouldn’t see somebody like me doing an ad for Dermalogica or Estée Lauder or other brands that are marketed to the everyday person,” she says. “It’s so nice to be able to be the face for so many different communities and know that they all have my back and support me. It’s also rewarding when younger kids come up to me and say they watch my videos. Or parents who say they use my videos to teach their children that it’s OK to be different and that we need to celebrate that.”

Adams-Wheatley does admit that, with over four million followers on TikTok, being in the public eye comes with its challenges, including online bullying and fans who don’t respect personal boundaries. And even though she describes her success as “overnight,” she admits that she takes it one day at a time. “I feel that proving myself is something I’ve been doing my whole life,” she says.

And she encourages others to follow her lead — and try out her tips for a perfectly blended smoky eye — as they accompany her on her journey. “People are always going to tell you that you can’t,” she says of what has kept her motivated over the years. “But you can. And the ‘sky’ is not the limit — you create your limits.”

Browse the gallery below for the beauty products Gabe Adams-Wheatley can’t get enough of.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

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